The Wine to Drink Now: Pétillant Naturel

Wondering what to sip this weekend? Trade in that glass of beer or rosé for this bubbly, low-alcohol wine that is making a comeback.

Donkey and Goat Winery
OF 10

Donkey and Goat Kraisey Merlot 2013

Shelve any ambivalence you have about Merlot. The northern climes of California’s Anderson Valley—known for its cool temperatures and high-acid wines—produce this translucent raspberry-colored pet nat that smells of roses and blood orange. Like most of its ilk, it uses only the native yeasts found on the grapes (as opposed to most large-scale commercial winemakers), making it a sensible choice for those who are into biodynamic and organic winemaking. A nice bit of residual sugar powers the marmalade and berry flavors, but the finish is dry and elegant. At a production of only 120 bottles, this could qualify as the summer’s most elusive wine prize.