The Wine to Drink Now: Pétillant Naturel

Wondering what to sip this weekend? Trade in that glass of beer or rosé for this bubbly, low-alcohol wine that is making a comeback.

Donkey and Goat Winery
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Donkey and Goat Kraisey Merlot 2013

Shelve any ambivalence you have about Merlot. The northern climes of California’s Anderson Valley—known for its cool temperatures and high-acid wines—produce this translucent raspberry-colored pet nat that smells of roses and blood orange. Like most of its ilk, it uses only the native yeasts found on the grapes (as opposed to most large-scale commercial winemakers), making it a sensible choice for those who are into biodynamic and organic winemaking. A nice bit of residual sugar powers the marmalade and berry flavors, but the finish is dry and elegant. At a production of only 120 bottles, this could qualify as the summer’s most elusive wine prize. donkeyandgoat.com.