Venice: Everything Comes from the Sea

From cuttlefish to monkfish tail, shore crabs to thick-bearded mussels, seafood is a way of life in this Watery city. Departures reports on the best of Venice’s defining cuisine and the pressures threatening to reshape it.

Ditte Isager
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Chef Cesare Benelli in the kitchen at Al Covo. Dinner, $70–$240. 3968 Castello, Campiello della Pescaria; 39-041/522-3812; ristorantealcovo.com.