From cuttlefish to monkfish tail, shore crabs to thick-bearded mussels, seafood is a way of life in this Watery city. Departures reports on the best of Venice’s defining cuisine and the pressures threatening to reshape it.
Chef Cesare Benelli in the kitchen at Al Covo. Dinner, $70–$240. 3968 Castello, Campiello della Pescaria; 39-041/522-3812; ristorantealcovo.com.