Finding Our Way in Maui
Top female Hawaiian navigator Kala Baybayan Tanaka uses ancient Polynesian wayfinding practices to journey across the open ocean — and through life.
AS A TORONTO native, I was captivated early on by Vancouver — the majestic Canadian city piqued my curiosity. When I made my way there for the first time in my teens, it was love at first step on Kitsilano Beach. The temperate climate, the waxy-leafed plant life, and the sweeping ocean views all had me smitten. When it came time for college, the adventurer and skier in me felt called to Vancouver. I landed at the University of British Columbia and spent four of my most formative years there. I’ve long since moved away, but I still miss those misty mornings. I’m fortunate to have friends to visit in the city, and when I do come to call, I see that the natural landscape I first fell for remains unchanged. In the past decade or so, the cultural scene that was just simmering when I lived there has taken off. The city is now awash in world-class (and as of 2022, Michelin-starred) restaurants, shops, and galleries. It has become much more than simply a stop on the way to Whistler. On a recent visit, these were the places that stood a notch above the rest that I would return to in a heartbeat.
Where to Eat and Drink
Flourist
Premium baked goods, flour, and more
At first glance, you might think you spotted a typo, but no, this shop is all about flour, the one with a “u.” It was founded in 2013 by Janna Bishop and Shira McDermott with the idea of bringing high-quality, Canadian-grown, and house-milled grains to the...
At first glance, you might think you spotted a typo, but no, this shop is all about flour, the one with a “u.” It was founded in 2013 by Janna Bishop and Shira McDermott with the idea of bringing high-quality, Canadian-grown, and house-milled grains to the people. You’ll find various products, including organic stone-ground flour, fresh-baked sourdough, and carefully selected grocery items. Don’t forget to throw in one of their legendary chocolate-chip cookies or a seasonal fruit tart.
The Birds & the Beets
A delightful morning destination
This gem has become a Gastown-neighborhood institution serving breakfast, salads, sandwiches, and a perfect cinnamon roll. Grab an expertly crafted cappuccino and one of the newspapers hanging on the wall, and sit by the window. Thanks to the...
This gem has become a Gastown-neighborhood institution serving breakfast, salads, sandwiches, and a perfect cinnamon roll. Grab an expertly crafted cappuccino and one of the newspapers hanging on the wall, and sit by the window. Thanks to the welcoming staff and natural light-filled interior, the cafe is one of the best places to spend a long, lazy morning or afternoon.
Published on Main
French dining inspired by British Columbia
If you’re looking for dinner, the current talk of the town is Published on Main. Opened by the team behind other Vancouver favorites, such as Bar Susu and Vignette, this is French-style fine dining with a Pacific Northwest twist. I’d suggest the gnocchi...
If you’re looking for dinner, the current talk of the town is Published on Main. Opened by the team behind other Vancouver favorites, such as Bar Susu and Vignette, this is French-style fine dining with a Pacific Northwest twist. I’d suggest the gnocchi with British Columbia-roasted morel mushrooms, and the spicy miso squid in verjus butter sauce. You’ll be introduced to local ingredients, such as black-currant leaf oil. The elegant dining room is equal parts polished and celebratory.
Sushi Hil
Exceptional, fresh ingredients
A few blocks down the street from Published, you’ll find another (very different) addition to the city’s culinary scene. It comes from chef Hilary Nguy, formerly of the Kitsilano neighborhood’s mainstay Temaki Sushi, where he was behind the bar for more than 20...
A few blocks down the street from Published, you’ll find another (very different) addition to the city’s culinary scene. It comes from chef Hilary Nguy, formerly of the Kitsilano neighborhood’s mainstay Temaki Sushi, where he was behind the bar for more than 20 years. At his eponymous restaurant (those in the know call him Chef Hil), you’ll find a la carte options, but the omakase, a meal selected by the chef, is the way to go. The restaurant is a small space where reservations are necessary for both lunch and dinner. The menu is simple, well-sourced, and ingredient-focused, just as good sushi should be.
Elephant
A distinct menu with an extensive wine list
To say Elephant is unique is an understatement. The food is produce-driven with a focus on regenerative agriculture and sustainability. Its five-course seasonal omakase tasting-menu changes weekly and has a global influence. You’ll find dishes such as a...
To say Elephant is unique is an understatement. The food is produce-driven with a focus on regenerative agriculture and sustainability. Its five-course seasonal omakase tasting-menu changes weekly and has a global influence. You’ll find dishes such as a Thai-inspired cabbage laab dressed with roasted beef fat and herbs, or rutabaga noodles with a “dangerous” crab dressing. If you can’t snag a table at this 18-seat restaurant, show up past 10 p.m. when they serve tartare burgers until midnight.
Juice Bar
Small bites and adventurous wines
Don’t be fooled by its name — this isn’t the place to grab items for your juice cleanse. On Tuesday through Saturday evenings, The Birds & the Beets transitions into Juice Bar, a wine bar on par with the likes of anything you'd come across in Paris. You won’t...
Don’t be fooled by its name — this isn’t the place to grab items for your juice cleanse. On Tuesday through Saturday evenings, The Birds & the Beets transitions into Juice Bar, a wine bar on par with the likes of anything you'd come across in Paris. You won’t find a drink menu, so go in with an open mind, ask questions, and trust the knowledgeable staff. If you like what you’re having, you can always take a bottle home with you; Juice Bar operates as a bottle shop as well. Foodwise, it’s light snacks, but the bar often hosts guest chefs for pop-ups that range from seasonal market cooking to seafood-centric cuisine.
Where to Stay
Fairmont Pacific Rim
An iconic stay with a celebrated bar
This Fairmont is the city’s marquee hotel for good reason. It’s located downtown right on the seawall, a five-minute walk from the Canada Place ferry terminal. Although an urban property, it has all the resort amenities, such as a spa, a heated...
This Fairmont is the city’s marquee hotel for good reason. It’s located downtown right on the seawall, a five-minute walk from the Canada Place ferry terminal. Although an urban property, it has all the resort amenities, such as a spa, a heated outdoor pool, and a state-of-the-art gym. The rooms are spacious and many have views of Vancouver Harbor. You’ll want to take advantage of their culinary program at their restaurant, Botanist, which features a sophisticated take on Pacific Northwest cuisine. Botanist’s bar was recently crowned as number 19 on North America’s 50 Best Bars list.
Loden
Stellar hospitality and amenities
For something smaller and boutique, try Loden. With a slightly more central location, it’s right off the main Robson Street shopping strip and a picturesque 20-minute walk from the city’s famous Stanley Park. You’ll want for nothing, with 24-hour room service and a...
For something smaller and boutique, try Loden. With a slightly more central location, it’s right off the main Robson Street shopping strip and a picturesque 20-minute walk from the city’s famous Stanley Park. You’ll want for nothing, with 24-hour room service and a well-equipped gym and spa. Borrow one of their bikes to ride through the park or along the seawall. Loden’s restaurant, Tableau, is known for its French-leaning brunch.
Four Seasons Resort Whistler
A luxurious mountain escape
Although not in Vancouver, if you happen to be passing through the city on your way to “the mountain,” this hotel is a great landing spot. Styled after an alpine ski village, the five-star property is slightly removed from the hustle and...
Although not in Vancouver, if you happen to be passing through the city on your way to “the mountain,” this hotel is a great landing spot. Styled after an alpine ski village, the five-star property is slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of the popular Whistler Village shopping district. This hotel has all the hallmarks of the fastidious Four Seasons’ service, a seamless check-in, and a staff who can cater to every whim. Its design leans into the natural surroundings with dark-wood details, large windows to take in the view, and fireplaces in each of the spacious rooms. If you have time, indulge in a massage featuring local ingredients such as maple and seaweed.
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Where to Explore
Catriona Jeffries
A storied, must-visit art gallery
With a secret courtyard entrance and sweeping ceilings, the space alone is worth a visit to Vancouver’s most notable contemporary art gallery. Founded in 1994 by its namesake Catriona Jeffries, the gallery was intended to support the local community of...
With a secret courtyard entrance and sweeping ceilings, the space alone is worth a visit to Vancouver’s most notable contemporary art gallery. Founded in 1994 by its namesake Catriona Jeffries, the gallery was intended to support the local community of artists. Since then, the gallery has risen to prominence on an international scale, showing exhibitions at fairs such as Art Basel and New York’s Armory Show. The gallery features Canadian artists, including Ian Wallace, Liz Magor, and Damian Moppett. Expect to find a mix of works that comprise painting, sculpture, and video work.
Neighbour
Curated looks for men and women
You’ll find two locations of the Gastown shop Neighbour: one women’s and one men’s. With impeccably-sourced collections, it's the place to find brands such as Issey Miyake, Lemaire, and Our Legacy. Don’t miss their housewares sections, which include everything...
You’ll find two locations of the Gastown shop Neighbour: one women’s and one men’s. With impeccably-sourced collections, it's the place to find brands such as Issey Miyake, Lemaire, and Our Legacy. Don’t miss their housewares sections, which include everything from covetable cult coffee makers to throws and small furniture. It’s the type of store worth leaving room in your suitcase for.
Commercial Drive
Explore this culturally rich street on foot
With a slight venture off the beaten path, you’ll find Commercial Drive on the city’s east side. It originated as a long-thriving hub of immigrant culture, mostly Italian, but now you’ll find establishments owned by Vancouver’s Caribbean, Latin American,...
With a slight venture off the beaten path, you’ll find Commercial Drive on the city’s east side. It originated as a long-thriving hub of immigrant culture, mostly Italian, but now you’ll find establishments owned by Vancouver’s Caribbean, Latin American, and Ethiopian communities. Make sure to stop by Baby Dhal for some Trinidadian roti flatbread or the all-day Italian cafe Livia, and save time to stroll and window shop the strip’s eclectic selection of stores. The vibe is different on “the Drive.”
Wreck Beach
Otherworldly beauty
With no shortage of pristine coastline, Vancouver is home to many great beaches, including Kitsilano, English Bay, and Jericho. Wreck Beach is by far the most mystical. It’s more remote than the others and is also clothing-optional. It sits out on the Point...
With no shortage of pristine coastline, Vancouver is home to many great beaches, including Kitsilano, English Bay, and Jericho. Wreck Beach is by far the most mystical. It’s more remote than the others and is also clothing-optional. It sits out on the Point Grey campus of the University of British Columbia and down nearly 500 stairs. Take in the lush foliage as you make your descent to the beach. Perch on a log and take a dip (if you dare; the water is cold), or just take in the eclectic crowd. Maybe even buy a samosa or a handmade bracelet from a vendor. You’ll see what I mean when you get there.
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Our Contributors
Kyle Beechey Writer
Kyle Beechey is a New York–based writer. She’s either writing a screenplay, on a far-off adventure, or baking a cake.
