I am in Jaipur and have discovered new places that I must share straightaway, as they will surely turn up on the grid very soon. There's a chic bar called Bar Palladio (pictured, Kanota Bagh, Narain Singh Rd.; 91-141/256-5556; bar-palladio.com) on the grounds of the Narain Niwas Hotel. It is brilliantly done—with blue walls and a black-and-white floor—and frequented by young, hip Indians and expats.
Then there's the shockingly superb restaurant called The Kitchen, which adjoins a three-month-old concept store called Jaipur Modern (51 Sardar Patel Marg; store: 91-141/411-2000, café: 91-141/411-3000). Both are co-owned by an Indian father and son and an Italian. The Kitchen could be mistaken as being too slick for Jaipur, but trust me, it's not. It has a Ligurian chef who serves no-nonsense Italian pasta. I died over the butter and sage pansotti.
I should also mention that I came upon a heinously neglected treasure of a museum farther afield in Srinagar, Kashmir, called the Shri Pratap Singh (Lal Mandi, Hazuri Bagh; spsmuseum.org). It's an old maharajah's palace. The collection of textiles and papier-mâché, barely preserved or secured, is spectacular. It's a project in need of a serious patron.