Berlin has been grown up for a while, but it’s still evolving from a punky bohemian hotbed to a cultural, culinary and retail destination. One need only look at the neighborhoods to understand the transformation. The reshaping of the formerly artist-dominated Mitte into a restaurant-and-retail juggernaut provides a sophisticated contrast to the gritty flavor of underground nightlife in Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain, just south. And where East Berlin has historically been at the center of the city’s cool, now there are hotels and cafés in West Berlin that have captured the conversation. Altogether the city has turned into an exciting destination that rivals Europe’s most established capitals.