TOKYO SOMEHOW MANAGES to be in a constant state of renewal while remaining forever ancient. Take the chaotic night scene in Shinjuku, one of the metropolis’ most iconic districts, which, with its old, small houses nestled in the shadows of mirrored high-rises, looks like a scene from “Blade Runner.” The city attracts people with wide-ranging interests, from manga and anime to cuisine and wellness. There is something here for everyone if you know where to look.
I was born in Japan, but for the last 35 years I’ve lived in Paris, working as a producer and acting as a bridge between the two cities for fashion-industry professionals. In recent years I’ve based my life in both places, traveling between them every other month. This has allowed me to welcome guests from abroad and to introduce them to the “real” Tokyo.
When I look at Tokyo as a longtime resident of Paris, I’m always surprised by the city’s depth and variety. At first glance, Tokyo is a wall of modern skyscrapers and huge shopping malls, but when you scratch the surface, it’s so much more. Here are my favorite spots in the city, from bustling izakayas (informal Japanese-style pubs that also serve small dishes and snacks) to hidden galleries, which will hopefully inspire you to linger in this magnificent metropolis.
Where to Eat and Drink
Daigo
A vegetarian restaurant with two Michelin stars
In the tranquility of a private room in a sukiya-style building — an architectural design characterized by small rooms made of rustic materials with the aesthetics of traditional teahouses — facing a Japanese garden, Daigo serves vegetarian kaiseki, a customary...
In the tranquility of a private room in a sukiya-style building — an architectural design characterized by small rooms made of rustic materials with the aesthetics of traditional teahouses — facing a Japanese garden, Daigo serves vegetarian kaiseki, a customary Japanese multicourse meal, prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients from producers throughout Japan. The dishes occasionally use dashi fish broth and eggs, but are mainly composed of colorful spreads of vegetables, tofu, and buckwheat soba noodles, and can be made completely vegan upon request (though be sure to mention dietary restrictions when you make the reservation). The vegan modoki options offer plant-based meat imitations that are surprisingly convincing.
Narukiyo
A lavish assortment of sashimi and Wagyu steak
This restaurant is not to be missed — if you can get a reservation. Global fashion insiders have spread the word of Narukiyo’s appeal, and every night it’s jam-packed. It’s a mix between a tachinomi (standing bar) and an izakaya, and the menu is written with a...
This restaurant is not to be missed — if you can get a reservation. Global fashion insiders have spread the word of Narukiyo’s appeal, and every night it’s jam-packed. It’s a mix between a tachinomi (standing bar) and an izakaya, and the menu is written with a brush on a long scroll of paper. Let the owner and chef, Narukiyo Yoshida, lavish you with an assortment of sashimi or a Wagyu steak cooked to smoky perfection in front of you. Retro rock, funk, and reggae play in the background, and the four chefs working behind the counter craft their beautiful dishes in concentrated silence. Narukiyo’s sense of style is what keeps people coming back.
Toraya
Japanese sweets with a teahouse
It’s customary to give wagashi (traditional sweets) as souvenirs for celebratory occasions in Japan, and no wagashi brand is trusted more than Toraya. The pinnacle of Japanese confectionery, Toraya was founded in the former capital of Kyoto in the early sixteenth...
It’s customary to give wagashi (traditional sweets) as souvenirs for celebratory occasions in Japan, and no wagashi brand is trusted more than Toraya. The pinnacle of Japanese confectionery, Toraya was founded in the former capital of Kyoto in the early sixteenth century, before accompanying the emperor to Tokyo in 1869. The Akasaka shop serves as its headquarters today, and in addition to selling confections, it also houses an art gallery and a teahouse, Karyo. Karyo is popular for lunch and afternoon tea; its refined menu uses seasonal plant-based ingredients. The Toraya website shows live wait times at the Akasaka location, but you’ll have to navigate it in Japanese.
Tempura Kondo
Vegetable-centric tempura
Chef Fumio Kondo presides over the counter of his restaurant day and night, and guests who are lucky enough to snag one of the 25 seats will witness him creating epicurean works of art, such as thinly shredded carrots that pop magically in the pan or slowly...
Chef Fumio Kondo presides over the counter of his restaurant day and night, and guests who are lucky enough to snag one of the 25 seats will witness him creating epicurean works of art, such as thinly shredded carrots that pop magically in the pan or slowly fried sweet potatoes. Unlike traditional Edomae tempura, which was mainly seafood-based, the star ingredients here are seasonal vegetables. Coated in a thin batter, they are flavorful and rich, and you’ll find none of the typical greasiness of tempura — Kondo’s version has about half of the calories of standard fare. He was the first tempura chef to win Japan’s Contemporary Master Craftsman award (Gendai no Meiko), and his tempura is based on more than 50 years of experience and a tirelessly innovative spirit.
Tonki
Unparalleled tonkatsu
Tonki in Meguro is home to some of the most accomplished tonkatsu (pork cutlet) chefs in Japan, and a position in its kitchen requires 10 years of training. The spacious open kitchen sits in the center of the restaurant, where a large number of staff in chef’s...
Tonki in Meguro is home to some of the most accomplished tonkatsu (pork cutlet) chefs in Japan, and a position in its kitchen requires 10 years of training. The spacious open kitchen sits in the center of the restaurant, where a large number of staff in chef’s whites zip around like a theater troupe. The blond wood counter that surrounds them is invariably full, but the spectacle makes it worth the wait. You can choose from loin, filet, or kushikatsu (deep-fried skewered meat and vegetables).
Where to Shop
Okura
A classic clothing brand’s flagship store
In the uber-modernized Tokyo district of Daikanyama, Okura has remained unchanged for 30 years. Take a peek inside the flagship store of the original Japanese clothing brand Blue Blue Japan, and you will find a sea of indigo garments. Browse aizome (natural...
In the uber-modernized Tokyo district of Daikanyama, Okura has remained unchanged for 30 years. Take a peek inside the flagship store of the original Japanese clothing brand Blue Blue Japan, and you will find a sea of indigo garments. Browse aizome (natural indigo-dyed) Japanese logo T-shirts, light jackets decorated with the traditional technique of shibori (tie-dyeing), and even samue (workwear for Japanese monks) designed in Okura’s unique style. Everything here makes for delightful souvenirs, while the displays in the store evoke the richness of Japan’s four seasons. In the basement you’ll find Bombay Bazar, a popular lunch spot for traditional Japanese curry. Its high ceilings make it a relaxing hideaway to cool off in the summer; be sure to order the kakigori (shaved ice).
Kama-Asa
Chef-approved cooking equipment
“Good tools have a reason” is Kama-Asa’s mantra. The kitchen supply shop was established in 1908 in Asakusa’s Kappabashi district, and first specialized in cauldrons. In the century since, Kama-Asa has become a go-to destination for the top-shelf cooking...
“Good tools have a reason” is Kama-Asa’s mantra. The kitchen supply shop was established in 1908 in Asakusa’s Kappabashi district, and first specialized in cauldrons. In the century since, Kama-Asa has become a go-to destination for the top-shelf cooking equipment that is popular with esteemed chefs from Japan and abroad. Combining the beauty of form with a toughness that can safely withstand heavy use by professionals, these aren’t mere kitchen tools, but instruments to be used and cared for over many years. If you don’t make it to Kappabashi, Kama-Asa also opened a shop in Paris in 2018, as well as having a global online store.
Y. & Sons
An established men’s kimono tailor
Y. & Sons is a men’s kimono tailor and one of the city’s chicest fashion establishments. The various codes of traditional dress in Japan might seem difficult to pull off at first glance, but the expert tailors at Y. & Sons are on hand to offer advice on...
Y. & Sons is a men’s kimono tailor and one of the city’s chicest fashion establishments. The various codes of traditional dress in Japan might seem difficult to pull off at first glance, but the expert tailors at Y. & Sons are on hand to offer advice on combining kimonos and haori (a jacket worn over a kimono) with western items. It takes just three weeks from measurement to the completion of a garment, so if you find yourself with enough time on your hands when you’re next in the city, a dandyish tailor-made kimono could be yours.
Porter Classic Ginza
Clothing and accessories made from one-of-a-kind fabrics
Katsuyuki Yoshida is a legend in the Japanese fashion world and has been jet-setting around the globe since the 1960s to produce his masterful bags, all the while gathering a passionate international fan base. Now running the Porter Classic brand...
Katsuyuki Yoshida is a legend in the Japanese fashion world and has been jet-setting around the globe since the 1960s to produce his masterful bags, all the while gathering a passionate international fan base. Now running the Porter Classic brand alongside his son, Leo Yoshida, Katsuyuki has committed to products made in Japan using precious fabrics from around the country. Notable among the shop's wares are their kendo gi (swordsman jackets) with sashiko (a type of Japanese embroidery) featuring military-inspired silhouettes. The shop in Ginza was renovated last year by Toho Visual Art Co. (the team behind the special effects in the “Godzilla” movies) and the production designer Yohei Taneda (the man behind the visuals in Quentin Tarantino’s “Kill Bill: Volume 1” and “The Hateful Eight”). The interior is designed to look like a ship’s deck beneath a starry sky and includes a private cinema lounge.
Beams Japan Shinjuku
Pioneering style since the 1970s
One of the great pleasures of shopping in Tokyo is picking out clothing at one of the city’s so-called “select stores” (boutiques that curate a wide selection of high-quality brands). Beams was the first multibrand select store established in the...
One of the great pleasures of shopping in Tokyo is picking out clothing at one of the city’s so-called “select stores” (boutiques that curate a wide selection of high-quality brands). Beams was the first multibrand select store established in the Harajuku district in the 1970s, making it a center of pioneering fashion. While Beams has typically taken fashion inspiration from the United States’ West Coast, the brand recently launched Beams Japan to showcase the best of Japanese art and craft. The flagship shop in Shinjuku is not to be missed. In addition to products that demonstrate the cutting edge of art and culture in Tokyo, you’ll also find innovative Japanese technology.
Nihonbashi Kiya
Cutlery and cookware in a historic setting
Tokyo has long attracted merchants and craftsmen. This history is still visible everywhere, with long-established shops interspersed among the modern high-rises. Nihonbashi Kiya, which was founded in the Edo era in 1792, has shaped much of Japanese...
Tokyo has long attracted merchants and craftsmen. This history is still visible everywhere, with long-established shops interspersed among the modern high-rises. Nihonbashi Kiya, which was founded in the Edo era in 1792, has shaped much of Japanese cutlery’s history and has its flagship shop in a corner of the Coredo Muromachi mall. The walls are lined with a wide range of practical and beautifully shaped knives, including Japanese and western kitchen knives. But you’ll also find sharp tools for gardening and sewing, iron pots, cooking utensils, and even nail clippers. If you bring in a knife that was purchased at Nihonbashi Kiya, they’ll resharpen it for you in the shop and send you off with detailed care instructions. The store also has branches in Roppongi Midtown and Ikebukuro, making it easy to drop in wherever you are in the city.
Advertisement
Where to Explore
TeamLab Planets
An interactive digital museum
In 2018, the TeamLab Planets art museum opened in a space near Tokyo Bay and has attracted a great deal of attention. The experiential digital museum is the brainchild of an international group of artists, mathematicians, computer-graphics animators,...
In 2018, the TeamLab Planets art museum opened in a space near Tokyo Bay and has attracted a great deal of attention. The experiential digital museum is the brainchild of an international group of artists, mathematicians, computer-graphics animators, architects, and engineers. Instead of observing the artwork as you would in a traditional museum, everything is interactive, and the work changes according to the body’s movements. You might wade barefoot through a pool of water or lie down inside of an artwork. It all makes for an enthralling and extraordinary experience for both children and adults.
Scai the Bathhouse
A contemporary art museum inside a former bathhouse
Inside Kashiwayu, a former public bathhouse with a 200-year history, is Scai the Bathhouse, a contemporary art gallery that shows work of celebrated creators such as Lee Ufan, a pioneering contemporary artist; Kohei Nawa, who recently exhibited at the...
Inside Kashiwayu, a former public bathhouse with a 200-year history, is Scai the Bathhouse, a contemporary art gallery that shows work of celebrated creators such as Lee Ufan, a pioneering contemporary artist; Kohei Nawa, who recently exhibited at the Louvre; and Anish Kapoor, a sculptor. The gallery is an important barometer for contemporary art trends both in Japan and abroad. Scai has supported a series of new works by world-renowned artists inspired by Japanese culture and has installed public art in Japan, such as Louise Bourgeois’ “Maman” sculpture, a casting of which resides in nearby Roppongi Hills, and artwork on Naoshima Island.
Hakujitsu
A shop specializing in antique ceramics
“I collect and display natural and man-made objects that have been exposed to the elements and that are on their way back to the earth,” says Koichi Nishizaka, the owner of Hakujitsu. This unique gallery shop features Japanese antiques and ceramics handpicked...
“I collect and display natural and man-made objects that have been exposed to the elements and that are on their way back to the earth,” says Koichi Nishizaka, the owner of Hakujitsu. This unique gallery shop features Japanese antiques and ceramics handpicked by Nishizaka, whose sense for aesthetics is unrivaled. Objects made out of a variety of materials from various countries and periods are placed in harmony under dim lighting. Located in a former dentist’s building, Hakujitsu has an impenetrable-looking door. There’s no sign outside either, but this doesn’t stop visitors who are in-the-know.
Where to Stay
The Okura
A hotel where tradition and modernity meet
When rumors circulated that The Okura was to undergo an extensive renovation in 2015, everyone anxiously waited to see if the lobby lounge, with its blend of iconic ’60s atmosphere and traditional Japanese spirit, would survive the change. Mercifully, when it...
When rumors circulated that The Okura was to undergo an extensive renovation in 2015, everyone anxiously waited to see if the lobby lounge, with its blend of iconic ’60s atmosphere and traditional Japanese spirit, would survive the change. Mercifully, when it reopened in 2019, the lobby — including the famous diamond-shaped Okura lanterns — was beautifully and meticulously recreated. The new iteration was designed by the architect Yoshio Taniguchi, whose father, Yoshiro, designed the original. The hotel is now spread across two wings; one is the Okura Heritage, which emphasizes the quiet comfort of a traditional Japanese hotel, while the other is the Okura Prestige, which is its more modern, dynamic side. The recipient of many of the travel industry’s top awards, The Okura’s reputation is well-deserved.
Shangri-La
A recommendation from Skye Parrott, Departures editor-in-chief
At the Shangri-La Tokyo, even the elevators have chandeliers. They barely shake, though, as the car smoothly shoots up to the top 11 floors of the 37-floor building, opening into the lobby with its quintessential, panoramic view of Tokyo. The hotel has much to...
At the Shangri-La Tokyo, even the elevators have chandeliers. They barely shake, though, as the car smoothly shoots up to the top 11 floors of the 37-floor building, opening into the lobby with its quintessential, panoramic view of Tokyo. The hotel has much to recommend it — from its location directly across from Tokyo Station, to the Chi Spa, offering seasonally inspired treatments, to its two restaurants, serving a choice of traditional Japanese and international cuisine — all provided with the impeccable service one would expect from such a storied property. But my favorite touch when I stayed was the pajamas, delivered nightly to my room during evening turn-down. They were the perfect outfit in which to enjoy a cup of tea and watch the neon city while awake at 4 a.m. with jetlag.
Hoshinoya
A recommendation from Elissa Polls, Departures head of production
If you are craving a more traditional accommodation, but with a five-star twist, look no further than the beautifully designed Hoshinoya. Located near Tokyo Station, this modern ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn, is the perfect way to experience Japanese...
If you are craving a more traditional accommodation, but with a five-star twist, look no further than the beautifully designed Hoshinoya. Located near Tokyo Station, this modern ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn, is the perfect way to experience Japanese customs (no shoes are allowed upon entering the lobby). The property features a spectacular outdoor onsen, or hot spring, on the roof that you can enjoy into the wee hours of the night; a delicious choushoku (traditional Japanese breakfast) that I recommend taking in your impeccably designed room; a spa filled with gorgeous products and treatments; and a cavernous restaurant that serves food almost too beautiful to eat. If you are an early riser, try the Kenjutsu (martial arts with swords) class on the roof with extraordinary views of the city.
The Four Seasons Otemachi
A recommendation from Maggie Morris, Departures writer
For the ultimate landing in Tokyo, there’s no finer place to rest and rejuvenate than the sky-high Four Seasons at the top of Otemachi Tower. From the chic, sleek entrance with a wall of windows framing the city below, to its serene spa and...
For the ultimate landing in Tokyo, there’s no finer place to rest and rejuvenate than the sky-high Four Seasons at the top of Otemachi Tower. From the chic, sleek entrance with a wall of windows framing the city below, to its serene spa and Michelin-starred dining options, Otemachi has it all. I recommend taking a long bath in the oversized bathtub overlooking the Imperial Palace grounds. The Four Seasons concierge can curate a personalized itinerary based on your interests. Michelin-starred chef Guillaume Bracaval creates a portrait-worthy tasting menu of Japanese-grown ingredients at Est. For the perfect nightcap, visit Keith Motsi at the plush art-deco bar Virtù and savor his French-Japanese cocktail concoctions above the twinkling city lights.
AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARD MEMBER ACCESS
Book Travel with American Express
Whether you’re planning a weekend staycation or the trip of a lifetime, you can plan your entire trip through American Express Travel. Plus, make the most of your journey with travel benefits and more. Learn more.
Our Contributors
Hiromi Otsuka Writer
Hiromi is a freelance producer based in Paris and Tokyo who works across Europe, North Africa, and Asia. She has deep experience in assignment coordination, from location scouting to on-location casting, and crew and equipment hire. An avid traveller herself, she loves to connect people across borders.
