Guides

A Local’s Guide to San Miguel de Allende

Novelist (and resident) Danielle Trussoni shares her favorite restaurants, hotels, and experiences in this magical Mexican city.

Courtesy of Casa Eterea
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IN THE SPRING of 2021, after a year without leaving our Hudson Valley home, my husband and I decided to relocate to San Miguel de Allende. We both work in creative fields — I’m a novelist and he is building a Web3 storytelling platform — and one of the great benefits of our professions is that we can work from anywhere in the world. But where to choose? We had clear criteria: We wanted to live in a place with rich culture, great weather, amazing restaurants, and the kind of historic charm that would inspire us daily. We considered European cities and South American cities, but when we visited San Miguel de Allende, we fell head over heels in love.

San Miguel is a perfect mix of all the things we wanted. The cobblestone streets of its old colonial center are lined with beautifully preserved Spanish-style homes. There are gorgeous parks, a botanical garden, and — at the center of the city — the Jardine: a square filled with cafes, shops, restaurants, and mariachi bands. The weather hovers around 70 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the year, and there is sun every day, even in the rainy season between July and September. (In my experience, it rains an hour or two in the afternoon, then clears in time for outdoor cocktails.) The restaurants are sophisticated, and the food is fresh, inventive, and delicious. I’ve seen the most magical sunsets from the rooftops in San Miguel, with the burnt-sienna mountain ranges in the distance.

While every visitor might experience these elements of San Miguel, I’ve found that it takes recommendations, exploration, and nearly two years to discover its truly unique experiences and offerings.

Courtesy of Nahima Aparicio

Where to Eat & Drink

Ki'bok Coffee

Local’s favorite
Ki'bok Coffee is a local favorite located on Sollano, one block from the Jardin Allende. A casual place to meet for breakfast, Ki'bok serves a full breakfast menu, quinoa bowls, and pastries. Nomads come for the strong wi-fi, but the reason I frequent... Ki'bok Coffee is a local favorite located on Sollano, one block from the Jardin Allende. A casual place to meet for breakfast, Ki'bok serves a full breakfast menu, quinoa bowls, and pastries. Nomads come for the strong wi-fi, but the reason I frequent Ki'bok is the coffee itself. Here, delicious, organic Mexican coffee beans are whipped into frothy cappuccinos and lattes. I always climb up to their rooftop terraces for a bit of sun and a view of the Centro.

San Mezcal

Casual Mexican fare and mezcal
You might miss San Mezcal if you don’t know where to look. The small, hip Mexican restaurant and bar is located just a few blocks from Parque Benito Juárez. It has 10 tables, an extensive selection of Mezcal, and delicious tapas. My favorites are the ceviche and the panko-crusted chicken torta with chili mayo, avocado, and jalapeño pico de gallo.

The Restaurant

Celebrated fine dining
The Restaurant has been a staple of San Miguel fine dining since Chef Donnie Masterson opened it in 2008. Nestled in an eighteenth-century Moroccan courtyard, just around the corner from the Jardin, it is one of those places that offers classics, such as... The Restaurant has been a staple of San Miguel fine dining since Chef Donnie Masterson opened it in 2008. Nestled in an eighteenth-century Moroccan courtyard, just around the corner from the Jardin, it is one of those places that offers classics, such as roasted chicken, pork chops, and ravioli prepared in surprising ways. My favored entrées are the duck breast with spaghetti squash and the sumptuous ribeye with blue cheese-bacon butter. While the secret about The Restaurant is out (you should definitely make a reservation), it has been well-received for a reason: Elegant and delicious, with an exquisite atmosphere, it is one of my favorites in San Miguel.

Merken SMA

Authentic South American cuisine
Merken SMA is a hidden gem of a restaurant in the San Antonio neighborhood on the west side of San Miguel that Chef Pablo Nicacio opened with his partner, Yaya, a musician specializing in Native ancestral songs, in 2017. Serving authentic Mexican cuisine using... Merken SMA is a hidden gem of a restaurant in the San Antonio neighborhood on the west side of San Miguel that Chef Pablo Nicacio opened with his partner, Yaya, a musician specializing in Native ancestral songs, in 2017. Serving authentic Mexican cuisine using ingredients from the “South Pacific and Native peoples” of South America, this small restaurant offers vibrant flavor combinations that are alternately traditional and surprising. Specifically, the enchiladas verdes are superb, as is the chocolate cake. Because the restaurant only has a few tables in the courtyard, it's best to reserve in advance.
Courtesy of Casa Delphine

Where to Stay

Casa Delphine

A luxe artisanal oasis
This chic, boutique hotel is one of the great secrets of San Miguel. Designed as a place for the “creative world traveler,” it is a haven in the historic district. The location is close to everything — it is a five-minute walk to the famous La Parroquia... This chic, boutique hotel is one of the great secrets of San Miguel. Designed as a place for the “creative world traveler,” it is a haven in the historic district. The location is close to everything — it is a five-minute walk to the famous La Parroquia church — and yet slightly removed from the bustle of the Centro. Each of Casa Delphine’s five rooms features a fireplace, a boveda ceiling, an outdoor garden, and an abundance of charm. Its owner, jewelry designer Amanda Keidan, organizes regular pop-up events at the hotel, including a monthly dinner series with five courses accompanied by tarot readings from a local tarot historian. What I love most about this hotel is that it strives to be a part of the traditional landscape of Mexico, yet it was created with the global citizen in mind.

Casa Etérea

An insider’s retreat
For the ultimate retreat near San Miguel, rent Casa Etérea. A gorgeous, modern escape in a volcanic landscape outside the city, it offers stunning star-gazing and the ultimate luxury: peace and quiet. Described as an “off-the-grid hideaway for two,” it takes... For the ultimate retreat near San Miguel, rent Casa Etérea. A gorgeous, modern escape in a volcanic landscape outside the city, it offers stunning star-gazing and the ultimate luxury: peace and quiet. Described as an “off-the-grid hideaway for two,” it takes its solitary stance to the extreme with its reservation system: All booking is done via the property’s website, and you can’t access a direct phone number or email address until after your stay is confirmed.

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Courtesy of Ted Davis

Where to Explore

La Gruta Spa

Hot springs haven
Located about 20 minutes from the city in the flat, sun-baked countryside, the spa is a green oasis of aguas termales. The ancient ritual of “taking the waters” is believed to offer health benefits: removing toxins, improving circulation, and stimulating... Located about 20 minutes from the city in the flat, sun-baked countryside, the spa is a green oasis of aguas termales. The ancient ritual of “taking the waters” is believed to offer health benefits: removing toxins, improving circulation, and stimulating oxygen in the blood. Crystalline pools of varying heat are scattered like jewels across the property. There are shallow pools for children; deep, warm pools designed for hours of soaking; and a steamy, hammam-esque grotto where one can sit neck-deep in soothing volcanic mineral water. My family goes to La Gruta on Sunday mornings (they open at 7 a.m.). We order large plates of chilaquiles and huevos rancheros, and then spend the rest of the day soaking. What makes La Gruta special is that it is predominately frequented by locals and is considered a sanctuary of health and relaxation.

Hot Air Ballooning

An unexpected perspective and view
On my first trip to San Miguel in 2021, I woke up early and climbed to the rooftop terrace of my hotel room, expecting to have a quiet coffee and watch the sunrise. But as soon as I settled into my chair, I couldn’t believe my eyes: The sky was filled... On my first trip to San Miguel in 2021, I woke up early and climbed to the rooftop terrace of my hotel room, expecting to have a quiet coffee and watch the sunrise. But as soon as I settled into my chair, I couldn’t believe my eyes: The sky was filled with hot air balloons! I soon learned that San Miguel is known for this early morning pageant. Each day, just as the sun is lifting, rainbow globos fill the sky with color. Eventually, I went up for a ride on one of Globo San Miguel’s daily trips, and while I don’t love heights, the opportunity to see San Miguel from above was exhilarating. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience I’ll never forget.

Fábrica La Aurora

Delightful outdoor shopping
Formerly a factory, Fábrica la Aurora is now a hub for galleries, restaurants, antique stores, fashion designers, furniture stores, and all things beautiful. I’ve bought paintings from Fernando Diaz’s gallery, rugs from Per Se Gallery, a necklace... Formerly a factory, Fábrica la Aurora is now a hub for galleries, restaurants, antique stores, fashion designers, furniture stores, and all things beautiful. I’ve bought paintings from Fernando Diaz’s gallery, rugs from Per Se Gallery, a necklace fashioned of moonstone and amethyst from the Beatriz Castañeda Gallery, and French serviettes from La Bottega di Casa. La Aurora is a great place to bring a group, as there is something for almost everyone — and plenty of cafes for simply hanging out, soaking up the sunshine, and talking.

Octagono Vino Ancestral

An unforgettable wine-tasting experience
The Tasting Room at Tenerías #2 is the ultimate underground experience in San Miguel. Located on a narrow cobblestone street, this jewel-box space is a bit hard to find. Primarily a tasting room for Octagono natural wines and Penca y Piedra’s... The Tasting Room at Tenerías #2 is the ultimate underground experience in San Miguel. Located on a narrow cobblestone street, this jewel-box space is a bit hard to find. Primarily a tasting room for Octagono natural wines and Penca y Piedra’s mezcals, it’s run by wine producer and distiller Marcelo Castro Vera, whose vineyards are two hours outside of San Miguel. A typical tasting experience involves between five and 20 wines and mezcals accompanied by local, artisanal appetizers. The best part is that it’s educational, with Vera explaining harvesting techniques, natural methods of distillation, and the history of Mexican viniculture. An evening at The Tasting Room is unforgettable and can only be experienced in San Miguel. Book your spot via email.

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Our Contributors

Danielle Trussoni Writer

Danielle Trussoni is the author of The Puzzle Master (June 13, 2023), The Ancestor, Angelology, The Fortress and Falling Through The Earth. You can read Danielle’s Dark Matters column in The New York Times Book Review.

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