ROME IS A city that has been in constant evolution for the last 2,776 years, but never as much as today. The capital is enjoying a rebirth after the harsh pandemic lockdowns that shut down much of Italy for months and turned the bustling capital into a ghost town. For those of us who weathered that storm, it was a glorious chance to explore the city without the usual bustle of tourists. But as grass grew between the cobblestones in the busiest piazzas, there was an overwhelming sense of yearning for busier times. Cafes and restaurants suddenly offered takeout and delivery services — unheard of until the pandemic — but drinking a cappuccino out of a paper cup just wasn’t the same as standing at a marble counter in a lively coffee bar.
When the city gradually reopened, everything was different. Romans suddenly realized what foreigners have loved about the city for centuries, from the splendor of the city’s museums and archeological riches to the food — in situ. Everything was different on the other side. Restrictions on indoor dining turned Rome into a city of outdoor cafes, which had never previously been the case. The government also offered incentives for renovations, meaning even some of the dingiest cafes and trattorias were renewed. Restrictions on public transportation led to a whole new facet of the city with bike and scooter sharing possibilities. The pandemic also brought the city online, with bookings for museums and even restaurants far easier than ever before.
Rome is now a city I never imagined it could be when I moved here in 1996. It is alive, vibrant, and more beautiful than I have ever seen it — not to mention far easier to navigate than ever before. For those of us who inhabit the Eternal City at this moment, it is an amazing place to live. For those who visit, it has never been more accessible.
Where to Eat
Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria
A true (and truly good) Roman cafe experience
The best coffee bar for a Roman is the one closest to their house, where the barista starts preparing “the usual” when the client walks in. But a visitor has to find a bar that treats you like a regular every time. Roscioli, near Campo dei...
The best coffee bar for a Roman is the one closest to their house, where the barista starts preparing “the usual” when the client walks in. But a visitor has to find a bar that treats you like a regular every time. Roscioli, near Campo dei Fiori, is a good bet. The pastry chef, Rodrigo Bernoni, is one of the best in Rome and the cappuccino served to visitors is exactly the same as the locals get, which is not to be assumed in the Eternal City. Wait for a table — it’s worth it to watch the Romans come and go for their morning coffee.
Ercoli Trastevere
Traditional Roman cuisine at its best
One of the longest-standing, upscale delicatessens in the leafy Prati district has opened a restaurant in Trastevere. Ercoli is a 100-year-old bastion of flavor in the city, selling only the finest delicacies. The restaurant is set in a converted...
One of the longest-standing, upscale delicatessens in the leafy Prati district has opened a restaurant in Trastevere. Ercoli is a 100-year-old bastion of flavor in the city, selling only the finest delicacies. The restaurant is set in a converted theater where you can have an aperitivo at one of the little tables on the theater risers before being seated for dinner. The dining tables are set among open shelves that carry Ercoli’s signature products and the best of made-in-Italy food and wine. The menu has Roman staples like carbonara and cacio e pepe, but the fun starts with the caviar menu, which offers three varieties and a nice selection of accompaniments. I always order the baccal morro alla Trasteverina, which is an elevated version of a traditional fish recipe that originated in the Jewish Ghetto in Rome across the Tiber.
Ad Hoc
The height of cuisine and romance
A refined romantic Italian dining experience often conjures up thoughts of heavy tapestries and stuffy waiters. But Ad Hoc is entirely different, with a decor not-so-subtly focused on wine displays, including floor-to-ceiling shelving of some of Italy’s best...
A refined romantic Italian dining experience often conjures up thoughts of heavy tapestries and stuffy waiters. But Ad Hoc is entirely different, with a decor not-so-subtly focused on wine displays, including floor-to-ceiling shelving of some of Italy’s best bottles. It is a quintessential date night restaurant, and in fact, if you are a party of more than two, you’ll have to let them know ahead and you might end up in a separate room or the center of the main dining room. Opt instead for the intimacy of the hidden-away corner tables when booking. They offer a number of themed tasting menus, including one dedicated to Italian truffles. The duck breast with truffled honey is my go-to dish here, and it never disappoints. The cantina has more than 1,000 wines to choose from, and reading the dessert list is almost an aphrodisiac.
Vinificio Enoteca
Out-of-the-ordinary, extraordinary aperitivi
The Roman neighborhood of Testaccio has come into its own as a top destination for oenophiles and foodies in recent years, and its latest offering masterfully combines both. Vinificio Enoteca boasts “funky food and real wine,” and its cellar carries 500...
The Roman neighborhood of Testaccio has come into its own as a top destination for oenophiles and foodies in recent years, and its latest offering masterfully combines both. Vinificio Enoteca boasts “funky food and real wine,” and its cellar carries 500 natural wines from all of Italy’s regions and many European countries. Natural wine is a relatively new concept in Italy, but it has come into favor recently as vineyards work to avoid pesticides, herbicides, and other chemicals in the process. The food offerings come in various formats, from cheese plates to the “big kitchen” menu, offering full meals for those who want to make a night of it. I consider this an aperitivo spot, where I often share a bottle of wine with friends over several plates of salami and cheese.
Retrobottega
Experimental cuisine made with local, seasonal ingredients
This restaurant is what happens when two Michelin-starred chefs (Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi) get together for an “experiment.” Retrobottega started as a food lab offering just one or two options a day, but it is now one of the most...
This restaurant is what happens when two Michelin-starred chefs (Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi) get together for an “experiment.” Retrobottega started as a food lab offering just one or two options a day, but it is now one of the most sought-after dinner reservations in the city. With only 20 tables, booking as far in advance as possible is mandatory — and often lunch is easier to book than dinner since Romans flock here. Its innovative menu is all sourced locally and changes with the season, sometimes weekly — the chefs hunt Rome’s best markets for unique offerings — which makes it hard to suggest a favorite dish. I always begin by asking what the chefs ate for dinner. Retrobottega also has two sister spots around the corner, Retro Vino e Caffe for breakfast and aperitivi, and Retro Pane e Pasta.
Where to Stay
rhinoceros Roma
Layered history and luxury with a view
Rhinoceros Roma is the brainchild of Alda Fendi, whose foundation offers a free art gallery on the main floor of the seventeenth-century building. Each of the 25 apartment suites is unique and pays homage to the building’s rather modest origins while...
Rhinoceros Roma is the brainchild of Alda Fendi, whose foundation offers a free art gallery on the main floor of the seventeenth-century building. Each of the 25 apartment suites is unique and pays homage to the building’s rather modest origins while offering glorious amenities such as choosing a perfume to scent your room with. The neighborhood is at the foot of Palatine Hill, overlooking the oldest ruins in the city, including the Arch of Janus and the Temple of Hercules Victor. The area became an obsession for Fendi, who bought the palazzo. French architect Jean Nouvel incorporated some remnants of each room’s past life, be it a child’s scrawls on a wall or a slip of original wallpaper. Take in the best views of the Eternal City from Rhinoceros Roma’s rooftop, soon to welcome a new restaurant.
Hotel Locarno
A storied hotel with glitterati appeal
When the owners of Hotel Locarno set out to renovate this beloved hotel, patrons balked, pleading for it to retain its 1920s vibe. This was, after all, Federico Fellini’s favorite place to stay when he came to shoot films in Rome. So it still feels like its...
When the owners of Hotel Locarno set out to renovate this beloved hotel, patrons balked, pleading for it to retain its 1920s vibe. This was, after all, Federico Fellini’s favorite place to stay when he came to shoot films in Rome. So it still feels like its original self, with myriad modern conveniences creatively disguised. The bar remains a staple for Rome’s glitterati — you’ll see every Rome-based movie star or singer if you stay long enough — but new additions include an expansive rooftop bar that peeks over Piazza del Popolo and shares space with a detox spa and gym during the day, complete with private trainers and Pilates classes. The rooms are also all unique — there is no cookie-cutter feel here.
Palazzo Manfredi
Luxurious rooms with Colosseum views
This boutique hotel, consistently voted among the world’s best, is nestled in a seventeenth-century palazzo. The best rooms are those with sightlines to Rome's ancient Colosseum — each with a private balcony. The Colosseum Suite has its own private gym...
This boutique hotel, consistently voted among the world’s best, is nestled in a seventeenth-century palazzo. The best rooms are those with sightlines to Rome's ancient Colosseum — each with a private balcony. The Colosseum Suite has its own private gym and whirlpool bath with a view of the historic amphitheater. When booking, note that some of the Junior Suites have transparent bathroom walls into the sleeping area, which isn’t to everyone’s taste. The Aroma rooftop restaurant offers fine dining and over 600 different Champagne labels.
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Where to Explore
After-hours tours of Roman attractions
Intimate access to must-see sites
It is no great secret that Rome attracts a lot of tourists and cut-the-line tours often don’t offer much advantage. But recently many must-see spots, from the Sistine Chapel to the Colosseum, have begun offering after-hours tours,...
It is no great secret that Rome attracts a lot of tourists and cut-the-line tours often don’t offer much advantage. But recently many must-see spots, from the Sistine Chapel to the Colosseum, have begun offering after-hours tours, meaning visitors have a chance for a near-exclusive look at some of the city’s finest offerings. Schedules are not flexible given the demand for private visits, so slots must be booked in advance. Several tour operators offer the tours, and only those with licenses have access. There is simply nothing more intimate than standing in these often bustling spots without rubbing shoulders with anyone.
Caravaggio’s Rome
A captivating stroll through history
There are bespoke tours of the 25 masterpieces that sixteenth-century artist Michelangelo Merisi, known as Caravaggio, painted in Rome. But a discerning visitor can also see them with a simple map. Some are in churches, such as Sant’Agostino near the...
There are bespoke tours of the 25 masterpieces that sixteenth-century artist Michelangelo Merisi, known as Caravaggio, painted in Rome. But a discerning visitor can also see them with a simple map. Some are in churches, such as Sant’Agostino near the Pantheon (“Madonna di Loreto”), and there are two (“Crucifixion of St. Peter” and “Conversion of St. Paul”) inside the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo in Piazza del Popolo. Others are in museums, including “John the Baptist (Youth with Ram)” and “The Fortune Teller” in the Capitoline Museums, as well as seven masterpieces housed in the Galleria Borghese. If you can only manage one stop, make it the church of San Luigi dei Francesi, which has three of the best Caravaggios (“The Calling of St. Matthew,” “The Martyrdom of St. Matthew,” and “St. Matthew and the Angel”).
Pincio Gardens
A hidden gem with prized city views
Rome is often described as an outdoor museum, where history seems to overwhelm the modern city. But there are other sides to the city well worth exploring, including the Pincio, as Romans call it, near the Borghese Gardens. It is by far the favorite...
Rome is often described as an outdoor museum, where history seems to overwhelm the modern city. But there are other sides to the city well worth exploring, including the Pincio, as Romans call it, near the Borghese Gardens. It is by far the favorite viewing point of the city by those who live here, and small cafes with views make it a marvelous place for breakfast or an aperitivo, or just to while away a few hours. A recent renovation of the walkways and some serious gardening have made it better than ever.
Top of the Vittoriano
An elevated yet under-the-radar secret
Surprisingly few people know about the glass elevator to the top of the audacious, white Victor Emmanuel II Monument that dominates central Rome. There are often exhibits worth visiting inside, including a permanent exhibit on Italy’s military...
Surprisingly few people know about the glass elevator to the top of the audacious, white Victor Emmanuel II Monument that dominates central Rome. There are often exhibits worth visiting inside, including a permanent exhibit on Italy’s military history, but the elevator to the roof is by far the best feature this building has to offer. Once on top, use the handy plexiglass maps to find all the main attractions in the city below. It is from this view that Rome makes the most sense — the way that the Colosseum is attached to the Forum and how the seven hills of Rome really do dominate the city.
Our Contributors
Barbie Latza Nadeau Writer
Barbie Latza Nadeau is an American journalist and author based in Rome since 1996. Her books include “The Godmother” about women in the mafia and “Angel Face” about the trials of Amanda Knox. Her work regularly appears in The Daily Beast, CNN, and Scientific American.
