Chef Aaron Adams prefers the term “horticultural cuisine” to describe Farm Spirit, his new plant-based restaurant in the food-obsessed city. The word vegan “conjures an idea of lots of fake meats and cheeses.” Instead, it’s local-farm harvests that are celebrated at his frequently sold-out 9- and 12-course tasting dinners, served at a 14-seat counter. Seasonal menus may include dishes such as strawberry-olive-oil cake with brown-sugar-roasted rhubarb, mint, and black-pepper aquafaba (a surprisingly convincing meringue made from chickpeas) for dessert. Tickets are bought online, eliminating the need to settle checks, and with one seating nightly, the experience is unhurried. “I want people to feel cared for,” Adams says. 1414 S.E. Morrison St.; farmspiritpdx.com.