In Iceland’s cultural capital, old is the new Nordic.
With chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason concentrating on opening Agern in Manhattan, his right hand man, Ragnar Eiriksson, has taken the helm at this moody, intimate dining room where the best seat (for serious students of technique) is one of three counter stools facing the prep station. Dinner always starts with a series of snacks, like trout roe with seaweed (that tastes wildly close to truffles) and dried reindeer-beetroot “skins.” The seven course main menu reads like a tasty lesson in Arctic biology, although much of it changes as quickly as the weather in this far latitude. I ate every spoonful of the ethereal caramelized potato with shaved lamb heart jerky, a Nordic interpretation of shepherd’s pie, and earned a tiny bag of the chef’s own sea salt as reward for cleaning my plate. Hverfisgata 12; 35-4/552-1522; dillrestaurant.is.