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FOR JULIE EUGÈNE, the art concierge of Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris, the city and its art scene are synonymous. One cannot exist without the other. Eugène moved to Paris to study contemporary art, photography, and mixed media more than 20 years ago, then worked in galleries such as Galerie Patricia Dorfmann and Speerstra. Her path crossed with Philippe Starck — the beloved French industrial designer and architect who oversaw the renovation of Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris, one of 31 “Palace” hotels, which are deemed to have transcended the five-star system. This happenstance meeting ultimately opened the door for Eugène to step into a career as the hotel’s art concierge. Eugène’s role has evolved over the last decade to include curating the hotel’s and the on-site gallery’s collections, managing the art bookstore, and creating art tours across Paris for hotel guests — often from completely private collections.
With this guide, Eugène not only highlights galleries and small museums, but the impeccable bars and restaurants that exist within these spaces or nearby. To her, this intersection of art and cuisine is a quintessential Parisian experience. While this guide is comprehensive, Eugène encourages travelers to explore deeper on their own. There are countless galleries hidden in plain sight on the streets of Paris.
First Arrondissement
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Expansive fashion and design exhibitions
Musée des Arts Décoratifs is located near the better-known Louvre and the Tuileries Garden. It’s an ideal museum to explore in spring or summer when the weather is warm, and you can enjoy the surrounding grounds. You’ll find impressive fashion and design exhibitions, such as the Dior and Louis Vuitton collections.
Loulou Paris
Italian cuisine at Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Loulou is a fantastic Italian restaurant nestled within Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Their extensive menu highlights plates inspired by the Italian and French Riviera. Visit for a signature Bellini, a filling meal of pizza, pasta, and various meats, or a...
Loulou is a fantastic Italian restaurant nestled within Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Their extensive menu highlights plates inspired by the Italian and French Riviera. Visit for a signature Bellini, a filling meal of pizza, pasta, and various meats, or a classic French tarte for dessert. The outdoor terrace is particularly lovely, overlooking the Louvre and the Tuileries.
Marais
Perrotin
A beloved gallery with humble beginnings
Emmanuel Perrotin, the founder of Perrotin Gallery, got his start presenting artists’ work from his apartment in the early ’90s. Over the last 30-plus years, the contemporary art gallery has become one of the most well-regarded in Paris, with additional...
Emmanuel Perrotin, the founder of Perrotin Gallery, got his start presenting artists’ work from his apartment in the early ’90s. Over the last 30-plus years, the contemporary art gallery has become one of the most well-regarded in Paris, with additional locations in New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai, Seoul, and Shanghai. Perrotin has created a space known for curating some of the most talented artists of our time and is a true innovator in the Parisian contemporary art scene.
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac
Exceptional European exhibitions
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac has been nestled in the Marais for quite some time. Discover its thoughtful curation after visiting Perrotin (a two-minute walk away). Thaddaeus Ropac showcases over 40 exhibitions a year from 60 artists at their numerous...
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac has been nestled in the Marais for quite some time. Discover its thoughtful curation after visiting Perrotin (a two-minute walk away). Thaddaeus Ropac showcases over 40 exhibitions a year from 60 artists at their numerous galleries in Paris, London, Salzburg, and Seoul. The Paris location exhibitions include the work of Alex Katz, an American figurative artist and one of Eugène’s favorites, and Chinese painter Han Bing.
Almine Rech Gallery
Up-and-coming artists
It’s important to note that you’ll find more than beautiful works of art here — the exhibit spaces themselves are exquisite (and are available for private events). If there’s one word Almine Rech, the director and owner of the gallery, would use to...
It’s important to note that you’ll find more than beautiful works of art here — the exhibit spaces themselves are exquisite (and are available for private events). If there’s one word Almine Rech, the director and owner of the gallery, would use to represent the artists they work with, it’s freedom. Rech makes it a point to pursue emerging artists, so you’ll find the work of artists at all points in their careers here, which isn’t always the case with well-established galleries. This gallery is very close to both Perrotin and Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac.
Fondation Azzedine Alaïa
Couture at its finest
This is more of a small museum than it is a gallery, yet their exhibitions are absolutely worth braving the crowds when you’re in the Marais. Azzedine Alaïa was a fashion designer who created looks for the likes of Raquel Welch, Madonna, Janet...
This is more of a small museum than it is a gallery, yet their exhibitions are absolutely worth braving the crowds when you’re in the Marais. Azzedine Alaïa was a fashion designer who created looks for the likes of Raquel Welch, Madonna, Janet Jackson, Brigitte Nielsen, Naomi Campbell, and Tina Turner (many of which you will find featured at the Foundation). In addition to exhibits celebrating his life’s work, you’ll find a bookstore focusing on art, design, and fashion, as well as a cafe meant to commemorate his well-known hospitality.
Little Red Door
A celebrated speakeasy
After an afternoon of exploring galleries, open the red door at 60 Rue Charlot and escape into the moody lighting for a cold beverage and a comfortable seat. If you need more convincing, the bar was number five on the World’s 50 Best Bars list last year...
After an afternoon of exploring galleries, open the red door at 60 Rue Charlot and escape into the moody lighting for a cold beverage and a comfortable seat. If you need more convincing, the bar was number five on the World’s 50 Best Bars list last year and has been on the list nine out of the last 12 years since the bar opened. You won’t find their menu online, so go in with an open mind, and let the bartender shake or stir something special for you.
Centre Pompidou
World-renowned modern art with a noteworthy exhibit
Centre Pompidou is one of the largest modern and contemporary collections in all of Europe, featuring works from masters as wide-ranging as Freida Khalo and Vassily Kandinsky. While the museum is well known, it’s more than worth noting in this guide for...
Centre Pompidou is one of the largest modern and contemporary collections in all of Europe, featuring works from masters as wide-ranging as Freida Khalo and Vassily Kandinsky. While the museum is well known, it’s more than worth noting in this guide for it’s impressive exhibits such as “Over the Rainbow,” which explores the evolution of art with artists from the LGBTQ+ community.
Georges
A remarkable view of Paris
For a meal with a nearly 360-degree view of Paris, visit Georges on Centre Pompidou’s rooftop. Come here for lunch, for dinner, or until the wee hours of the morning for cocktails. The restaurant serves French classics like carpaccio, tartare, and omelets,...
For a meal with a nearly 360-degree view of Paris, visit Georges on Centre Pompidou’s rooftop. Come here for lunch, for dinner, or until the wee hours of the morning for cocktails. The restaurant serves French classics like carpaccio, tartare, and omelets, alongside modern plates like quinoa bowls. You don’t want to visit Centre Pompidou without coming to Georges.
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Left Bank
Mennour
A curator invested in new talent
Located in the sixth arrondissement, this is one of the finest galleries in Paris. Kamel Mennour, the founder and curator, has been luring artists from art schools for more than 20 years, supporting their work through the gallery, and driving them to...
Located in the sixth arrondissement, this is one of the finest galleries in Paris. Kamel Mennour, the founder and curator, has been luring artists from art schools for more than 20 years, supporting their work through the gallery, and driving them to international success. It is quite challenging for contemporary artists to have their work properly recognized, but Mennour has created a space with a unique perspective on international art. As a result, many of her artists have received the Marcel Duchamp Prize (one of the most prestigious awards for contemporary artists). There are ample galleries in this area, so start here and don’t be afraid to explore.
Lapérouse
A storied restaurant serving classic French cuisine
This French restaurant is a three-minute walk from Mennour if you find yourself peckish — although you should make a reservation ahead of time. Since 1766, it has hosted literary legends and artists. More recently, Pharrell Williams, Jessica Biel, Justin...
This French restaurant is a three-minute walk from Mennour if you find yourself peckish — although you should make a reservation ahead of time. Since 1766, it has hosted literary legends and artists. More recently, Pharrell Williams, Jessica Biel, Justin Timberlake, and Madonna have visited. Come for nostalgic French classics such as beef tartare with caviar, truffled croque-monsieur, foie gras, and steak frites.
Ninth Arrondissement
Musée de la Vie Romantique
Escape to another era
This museum is quite small, and as its name suggests, it’s dedicated to the Romantic period, which lasted from the late eighteenth to mid-nineteenth centuries. While the museum’s focus is Romantic art, it also feature contemporary exhibitions....
This museum is quite small, and as its name suggests, it’s dedicated to the Romantic period, which lasted from the late eighteenth to mid-nineteenth centuries. While the museum’s focus is Romantic art, it also feature contemporary exhibitions. There is a permanent collection of French writers, and contemporary artists are invited to speak about the Romantic period. Be sure to explore the small secret garden, which can only be accessed through the museum.
Palais Garnier
Opera and ballet in a grand setting
If you’re interested in a complete itinerary for an afternoon and evening in the ninth arrondissement, look no further than Musée de la Vie Romantique followed by the ballet at the Opéra National de Paris’ Palais Garnier (often called Opéra Garnier), and a...
If you’re interested in a complete itinerary for an afternoon and evening in the ninth arrondissement, look no further than Musée de la Vie Romantique followed by the ballet at the Opéra National de Paris’ Palais Garnier (often called Opéra Garnier), and a classic French meal at CoCo (listed below). Performances, of course, change according to the season, but the Palais Garnier has remained largely unchanged since 1875.
CoCo
Inventive French cuisine
This is a fine-dining establishment serving French cuisine for lunch and dinner every day of the week, as well as brunch on the weekends. Their menu is classic, yet inventive. You’ll find staple dishes such as lemon-roasted chicken and escargot, alongside twists on...
This is a fine-dining establishment serving French cuisine for lunch and dinner every day of the week, as well as brunch on the weekends. Their menu is classic, yet inventive. You’ll find staple dishes such as lemon-roasted chicken and escargot, alongside twists on the classics such as artichoke carpaccio. The CoCo bowl is vegan and packed with avocado, mango, and a variety of seeds. It’ll take you one minute to walk here from Palais Garnier.
11th Arrondissement
L’Atelier des Lumières
An immersive family-friendly gallery
If you’re exploring Paris with kids in tow (or someone who isn’t keen on museums), L’Atelier des Lumières is an excellent choice. The cultural space, which exclusively highlights immersive artwork, is unique in comparison with your traditional...
If you’re exploring Paris with kids in tow (or someone who isn’t keen on museums), L’Atelier des Lumières is an excellent choice. The cultural space, which exclusively highlights immersive artwork, is unique in comparison with your traditional galleries and museums. You’ll find digital artwork (projections of canvases from floor to ceiling) that add a certain lightness and element of play to the experience.
Ober Mamma
Excellent casual Italian cuisine
Ober Mamma is part of the Big Mamma restaurant group with beloved spots across Europe. Parisian families flock to this particular concept for its exceptional Italian cuisine, and it’s close in proximity to L’Atelier des Lumières. Eugène favors their truffle...
Ober Mamma is part of the Big Mamma restaurant group with beloved spots across Europe. Parisian families flock to this particular concept for its exceptional Italian cuisine, and it’s close in proximity to L’Atelier des Lumières. Eugène favors their truffle pizza and pasta, as well as their tiramisu — the latter of which she claims is the litmus test for any quality Italian restaurant.
16th Arrondissement
Palais de Tokyo
A museum with subterranean exhibits
Palais de Tokyo doesn’t necessarily fit the small museum and gallery direction of this guide, seeing as how it’s technically the largest contemporary art museum in Paris. That being said, there are a number of surprising elements that make it feel like a...
Palais de Tokyo doesn’t necessarily fit the small museum and gallery direction of this guide, seeing as how it’s technically the largest contemporary art museum in Paris. That being said, there are a number of surprising elements that make it feel like a hidden gem. For starters, there are a handful of exhibits in the subterranean passageways underneath the museum that operate on separate hours than the rest of the museum. The space also hosts fashion shows each year for Fashion Week and houses two noteworthy restaurants — Bambini Paris and Monsieur Bleu.
Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris
Contemporary art surrounded by historical landmarks
All of the museums listed in this section are within walking distance from one another, allowing for a full day of taking in Parisian art. While you’re in the 16th, you’ll be able to take in iconic historic landmarks such as the Eiffel Tower...
All of the museums listed in this section are within walking distance from one another, allowing for a full day of taking in Parisian art. While you’re in the 16th, you’ll be able to take in iconic historic landmarks such as the Eiffel Tower and the Champs-Élysées. With over 15,000 works of modern art in its collection, this is by no means a small museum, so set aside a long afternoon for a visit after your other small museum stops.
Palais Galliera
A history in fashion
This is one of the smallest museums in Paris, and it’s dedicated to fashion design. In their permanent collection, you can discover designs dating back as far as the 1730s, allowing viewers to take in the evolution of the silhouette over the last three...
This is one of the smallest museums in Paris, and it’s dedicated to fashion design. In their permanent collection, you can discover designs dating back as far as the 1730s, allowing viewers to take in the evolution of the silhouette over the last three centuries. “Fashion on the Move” and “1997 Fashion Big Bang” are two particularly remarkable exhibits.
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Inspiration, the studio, and more from Yves Saint Laurent
This is the home of Yves Saint Laurent’s studio. It’s particularly special to be able to glimpse the designer’s desk as it was when he was alive, with his sketches scattered. You’ll also find exhibitions on Paris Fashion Week shows and other designers Yves Saint Laurent found inspiring.
Musée Guimet
International artists and rooftop views
This museum invites contemporary artists to show their work in an undeniably inspiring environment. The peaceful and wide-open exhibits featuring the work of Chinese and Japanese artists are breathtaking, but the hidden gem is the rooftop with its incomparable view of the Eiffel Tower.
Monsieur Bleu
Garden cocktails and modern French cuisine
Monsieur Bleu is a beloved French restaurant with a modern twist located within Palais de Tokyo. On warmer days and nights, enjoy a cocktail or meal in their garden, which has a direct sightline to the Eiffel Tower. Monsieur Bleu’s vanilla and praline-filled choux pastries topped with warm chocolate sauce are not to be missed.
Bambini Paris
Italian classics in Palais de Tokyo
This is another restaurant inside the Palais de Tokyo, but it’s more casual than Monsieur Bleu. Bambini serves Italian favorites such as focaccia, bruschetta, charcuterie, and cheese, plus pizza and pasta. The truffle pizza is excellent, and their cocktail menu is expansive (with a couple of mocktails if that’s your preference).
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Our Contributors
Hailey Andresen Writer
Hailey Andresen is the guides editor at Departures. A New York–based writer and editor, she founded the digital lifestyle publication Household Mag and has spent more than a decade in the hospitality industry.
