A Food Lover’s Guide to Phoenix
A former local, who discovered her deep love for food and hospitality in this sunny city, returns to explore its best and newest dining and drinking experiences.
ALTHOUGH I WASN’T born in Milan, I’ve lived here all my life and consider it “my city.” I’ve built a career championing its design, and now, more than ever, I find it to be one of the most intriguing cities in Europe. It’s cosmopolitan and exciting, with new parks, museums, hotels, restaurants, clubs, events, and a new policy aimed at sustainable mobility defining a new identity while still preserving the city’s distinct DNA. It’s a mix of ritual, nuance, hidden courtyards, style, tradition, contrast, opportunity, fog, culture, damp cold, and scorching heat. It is many things at once, but everywhere you go, you can find authenticity, community, and incredible design.
Where to Experience Architecture
Villa Necchi Campiglio
An historic home in the heart of the city
This storied building is part of the "Case Museo di Milano" circuit. Completed in 1935 by architect Piero Portaluppi, it’s surrounded by a vast private garden with a swimming pool and is one of the best examples of the intellectual bourgeoisie’s eclectic elegance from that era. I love visiting on...
This storied building is part of the "Case Museo di Milano" circuit. Completed in 1935 by architect Piero Portaluppi, it’s surrounded by a vast private garden with a swimming pool and is one of the best examples of the intellectual bourgeoisie’s eclectic elegance from that era. I love visiting on Sunday mornings in the spring to enjoy the blossoming garden’s silence or a poolside coffee.
Villa Borsani
An architectural marvel by Osvaldo Borsani
In the heart of Brianza, the home of Italian design, visit the Borsani family house, which is specifically located in Varedo and was built in the 1940s next to the family’s furniture factory. Villa Borsani houses the company’s historical archive and is considered a treasure of modern...
In the heart of Brianza, the home of Italian design, visit the Borsani family house, which is specifically located in Varedo and was built in the 1940s next to the family’s furniture factory. Villa Borsani houses the company’s historical archive and is considered a treasure of modern architecture. You’ll also find an important collection of historical artifacts and artworks. Stopping in during the week (rather than the weekend) is ideal. Follow your tour with a quick lunch in one of the local trattorias to fully appreciate the area.
Fondazione Achille Castiglioni
A museum with a personal touch
Here you’ll find the studio and museum where the master designer Achille Castiglioni worked from 1962 to 2002, complete with an archive of prototypes, products, drawings, and books collected by his foundation. I suggest taking one of the guided tours to go deep into his work. Giovanna...
Here you’ll find the studio and museum where the master designer Achille Castiglioni worked from 1962 to 2002, complete with an archive of prototypes, products, drawings, and books collected by his foundation. I suggest taking one of the guided tours to go deep into his work. Giovanna Castiglioni, Achille’s daughter, who helps run the foundation, is one of the tour guides, and her personal anecdotes provide intimate insight into his story.
Casa Fornasetti
An exclusive event space
Casa Fornasetti — which houses the brand’s historical archive, graphic studio, and marketing and communication department — is, in part, also the private home of Barnaba Fornasetti, the brand’s eclectic art director. That’s why this intimate and exclusive space is only open to select guests and...
Casa Fornasetti — which houses the brand’s historical archive, graphic studio, and marketing and communication department — is, in part, also the private home of Barnaba Fornasetti, the brand’s eclectic art director. That’s why this intimate and exclusive space is only open to select guests and for unique private events. And it’s a poorly kept secret that Fornasetti’s parties during Fuorisalone (Milan’s Design Week) are unmissable.
Pirelli Tower
A Giò Ponti architectural masterpiece with a view
Grattacielo Pirelli was designed by Giò Ponti in 1950 and built between 1956 and 1961. It is still one of Milan’s highest viewing points ("grattacielo" means skyscraper in Italian), and its recently renovated top floor is now an event space open to the public. My favorite time to visit is on...
Grattacielo Pirelli was designed by Giò Ponti in 1950 and built between 1956 and 1961. It is still one of Milan’s highest viewing points ("grattacielo" means skyscraper in Italian), and its recently renovated top floor is now an event space open to the public. My favorite time to visit is on winter mornings when the sky is clear. On days like this, the view extends beyond the city, all the way to the snowy peaks of the Alps.
Where to Experience Design
Triennale di Milano
Milan’s temple of design
Since 1923, Triennale has been one of Milan’s most important cultural institutions. It is home to the Italian Design Museum, plus a theater, cafe, and restaurant. The museum hosts a selection of more than 1,600 historic items, amongst the most iconic and representative of Italian design, ranging...
Since 1923, Triennale has been one of Milan’s most important cultural institutions. It is home to the Italian Design Museum, plus a theater, cafe, and restaurant. The museum hosts a selection of more than 1,600 historic items, amongst the most iconic and representative of Italian design, ranging from 1946 to 1981. Try to catch an exhibition opening, visit on a Thursday summer evening for a cocktail in the garden or come by on a Sunday for family brunch.
ADI Design Museum
An historic archive of award-winning designs
Housed in a restored historical 1930s treasure of Italian industrial design, ADI allows you to travel through history, following the winners of the Compasso d'Oro: arguably the world's most important industrial design award. I suggest studying the calendar of events and visiting the museum late in the afternoon after attending an onsite lecture.
DimoreGallery
The best of twentieth-century design
Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran, who have an apartment-gallery in the heart of the internationally renowned Brera Design District, have recently created their new headquarters in a 21,000-square-foot industrial warehouse behind the city’s central train station. With a gallery, event area, and bar,...
Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran, who have an apartment-gallery in the heart of the internationally renowned Brera Design District, have recently created their new headquarters in a 21,000-square-foot industrial warehouse behind the city’s central train station. With a gallery, event area, and bar, this is the new "place to be" for design lovers, especially during Design Week.
Officina Antiquria
Eclectic antique and designer furnishings
Explore a selection of unique twentieth-century design, modern art, art deco, and antiques chosen by Luca Vitali, the owner of this Milan gallery, founded in 1993. If you are lucky enough to meet Vitali, he will retrace the history of design through anecdotes and memories, starting with an item in the window.
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Where to See Art
Nilufar Depot
An industry gathering place
The building that houses Nilufar Depot is a former silversmith plant turned exhibition space dedicated to design. Here you’ll find unique items and limited editions in a mix of traditional and contemporary designs. The space was opened in 2015 by Nina Yashar, and it’s a place for the...
The building that houses Nilufar Depot is a former silversmith plant turned exhibition space dedicated to design. Here you’ll find unique items and limited editions in a mix of traditional and contemporary designs. The space was opened in 2015 by Nina Yashar, and it’s a place for the international design and art community to meet and experiment throughout the year, but particularly during the annual Design Week.
Fondazione Prada
A new, golden city landmark
This cultural institution was founded in 1993 by Miuccia Prada and is dedicated to contemporary art projects, cinema, photography, philosophy, dance, and architecture. Its iconic golden tower has become a new urban landmark, complete with a destination cocktail bar and restaurant. I particularly...
This cultural institution was founded in 1993 by Miuccia Prada and is dedicated to contemporary art projects, cinema, photography, philosophy, dance, and architecture. Its iconic golden tower has become a new urban landmark, complete with a destination cocktail bar and restaurant. I particularly love visiting at dusk on late-spring evenings, when Milan’s sky is lit by a fiery sunset, and I can sip a cocktail on the terrace after visiting the latest exhibition.
Pirelli HangarBicocca
A massive contemporary exhibition space
A restored industrial plant, Pirelli HangarBicocca is an institution dedicated to producing and promoting contemporary art. The nearly 50,000-square-foot exhibition space, one of the largest in Europe, also offers free entrance to its exhibitions, which include Anselm Kiefer’s permanent work “The...
A restored industrial plant, Pirelli HangarBicocca is an institution dedicated to producing and promoting contemporary art. The nearly 50,000-square-foot exhibition space, one of the largest in Europe, also offers free entrance to its exhibitions, which include Anselm Kiefer’s permanent work “The Seven Celestial Palaces 2004-2015.” The Hangar is the perfect venue for winter weekends or lunch with family and friends at the onsite bistro. But don’t forget to stop at the towers, which are always spectacular and unique to Milan.
Memphis Milano Galleria
A groundbreaking design collection
December 11, 1980, was the birth of a movement that broke all the rules with a revolutionary collection of design items. The Memphis Group introduced a new language blending elegance and kitsch, introducing playfulness into the hyperrational language of industrial production. In this gallery,...
December 11, 1980, was the birth of a movement that broke all the rules with a revolutionary collection of design items. The Memphis Group introduced a new language blending elegance and kitsch, introducing playfulness into the hyperrational language of industrial production. In this gallery, some of the historical collection that started it all is for sale. I pass by it every day, since it’s close to my studio, and I love looking at the window displays: The combination of color and texture always reminds me how much I love my profession.
Tommaso Calabro
A gallery for interdisciplinary connection
The Palazzo Marietti is a neoclassic treasure with Renaissance origins, and Tommaso Calabro has opened his gallery specializing in international modern and contemporary art on its main floor. I like to visit this space with my wife, who guides me through the discovery of artists and...
The Palazzo Marietti is a neoclassic treasure with Renaissance origins, and Tommaso Calabro has opened his gallery specializing in international modern and contemporary art on its main floor. I like to visit this space with my wife, who guides me through the discovery of artists and installations. After your visit, take a walk in the “Cinque Vie” area, the historical heart of the city.
Where to Shop
Fortela
A blend of vintage, American, and Italian styles
Fortela is an Italian luxury brand that brings together a passion for vintage, classic tailoring, and hints of western and military style. The collection draws inspiration from Alessandro Squarzi’s vast wardrobe, which is an historical archive of men’s style. He is acknowledged as one of Europe’s...
Fortela is an Italian luxury brand that brings together a passion for vintage, classic tailoring, and hints of western and military style. The collection draws inspiration from Alessandro Squarzi’s vast wardrobe, which is an historical archive of men’s style. He is acknowledged as one of Europe’s top collectors of vintage apparel. I personally follow Squarzi’s stories on Instagram to discover unique items for my own wardrobe.
10 Corso Como
Where culture, retail, and community meet
The 10 Corso Como store opened in 1991 in a converted garage and offers a mix of cultural and commercial items from fashion to design, including music, art, and photography. At this location, there is also a shop, art gallery, garden, cafe, and bookstore. I recommend visiting on a relaxed Sunday...
The 10 Corso Como store opened in 1991 in a converted garage and offers a mix of cultural and commercial items from fashion to design, including music, art, and photography. At this location, there is also a shop, art gallery, garden, cafe, and bookstore. I recommend visiting on a relaxed Sunday morning, having a coffee in the garden, and stopping by the exhibition on the first floor. Or, stop by on winter evenings, when the atmospheric lights turn this into a truly unique space, suspended above the city’s chaos.
Deus ex Machina
A dynamic mixed space
A workshop, cafeteria, and cocktail bar with a kitchen, concept store, and event space: The Deus in the Isola neighborhood of Milan is all this and more. It’s an ideal place to meet for cocktails, brunch, or when looking for a refined item of clothing — it’s where I purchase 90% of my outfits. My...
A workshop, cafeteria, and cocktail bar with a kitchen, concept store, and event space: The Deus in the Isola neighborhood of Milan is all this and more. It’s an ideal place to meet for cocktails, brunch, or when looking for a refined item of clothing — it’s where I purchase 90% of my outfits. My favorite time to visit is on Saturdays for lunch with friends and family, or on spring and summer evenings for an excellent Moscow mule in the yard.
Antonia
Fashion in an architecturally rich setting
Here are two spaces where you can find a unique selection of clothes and accessories. The architectural project of Antonia’s second store, located within Portrait Milano — a new lifestyle destination in the center of Milan — is by Vincenzo de Cotiis. Antonia was inspired by brutalist...
Here are two spaces where you can find a unique selection of clothes and accessories. The architectural project of Antonia’s second store, located within Portrait Milano — a new lifestyle destination in the center of Milan — is by Vincenzo de Cotiis. Antonia was inspired by brutalist architecture, complete with a raw-edged industrial feel defined by expansive spaces, 20-foot ceilings, and grand columns. Best to explore on a weekday morning so you can enjoy the space with fewer crowds.
Nonostante Marras
An enchanting atelier and exhibition space
Recovered from a former workshop, Nonostante Marras is a concept store, art and photography exhibition space, atelier, and the home of a rotating private book collection. In the spring, wisteria fills the air in the courtyard with an amazing perfume. This makes spring the ideal time to visit this...
Recovered from a former workshop, Nonostante Marras is a concept store, art and photography exhibition space, atelier, and the home of a rotating private book collection. In the spring, wisteria fills the air in the courtyard with an amazing perfume. This makes spring the ideal time to visit this corner of paradise, and the Design Week events and temporary exhibitions are also not to be missed. On top of that, you can enjoy remarkable cuisine linked to Marras’ origins. (The store is temporarily closed for renovations.)
Where to Drink
Bar Basso
The birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato
Bar Basso is the design community's favorite bar and is the cult venue where all Design Week evenings should end. Here, stories verge on mythology. Maurizio Stocchetto has kept the bar’s 50-year history and tradition alive, from its role in the advent of Milano da Bere to the city’s more...
Bar Basso is the design community's favorite bar and is the cult venue where all Design Week evenings should end. Here, stories verge on mythology. Maurizio Stocchetto has kept the bar’s 50-year history and tradition alive, from its role in the advent of Milano da Bere to the city’s more international rise, always remaining true to its signature “dello sbagliato” take on the negroni (which replaces gin with prosecco). For me, it’s always a good time to go to Bar Basso, whether it’s happy hour with friends, your last stop of the night, or a (bit more tame) special weekday lunch.
Dry Milano
A glamorous space for cocktails and gourmet pizza
Dry was the first restaurant and bar in Milan to introduce gourmet pizza and quality cocktails in a setting that “doesn’t feel like you’re in Milan.” For a decade, it’s been a glamorous gathering place, a meeting spot before dinner, or an easy way to end the night. My order: a margherita pizza...
Dry was the first restaurant and bar in Milan to introduce gourmet pizza and quality cocktails in a setting that “doesn’t feel like you’re in Milan.” For a decade, it’s been a glamorous gathering place, a meeting spot before dinner, or an easy way to end the night. My order: a margherita pizza and a gin and tonic. I prefer to eat here on a cold winter’s night to find warmth and to catch up with a friend.
Ronin
A hip Japanese tavern and listening bar
The first floor of the house of Ronin offers an irreverent izakaya tavern, where artists and wine collectors gather at the “listening bar” to enjoy vinyl records on a quality sound system. Meanwhile, the second floor houses a restaurant inspired by the Robata, the traditional Japanese grill, with...
The first floor of the house of Ronin offers an irreverent izakaya tavern, where artists and wine collectors gather at the “listening bar” to enjoy vinyl records on a quality sound system. Meanwhile, the second floor houses a restaurant inspired by the Robata, the traditional Japanese grill, with a karaoke and cocktail bar dedicated to high mixology.
Rita
Classic Milanese cocktails
Rita has been around for two decades and is considered by many to be the city’s best cocktail bar. It has anticipated and survived trends by focusing on high-quality, unexpected drinks — and has been a favorite late-night haunt of mine since university, but don’t overlook its Sunday brunch.
Our Contributors
Paolo Casati Writer
Milanese creative director and brand consultant, Paolo Casati is a co-founder of Studiolabo. He promotes design through Fuorisalone.it and the Brera Design District brand, activating communication projects, events, and networking.
