Is This Mexico City’s Most Interesting Street?

Ernesto Ruiz/Getty Images

CDMX is filled with picturesque streets, but this one takes the cake. 

Set south of Paseo de la Reforma and north of Avenida Chapultepec in the Cuauhtémoc neighborhood of Mexico City, Colonia Juárez is receiving quite the buzz for hosting the city’s most exciting openings, from familial cafés with worldly comfort foods to swanky new bars serving hard-to-find Mexican spirits. At the center of it all is Calle Havre, host to some of the city’s most interesting restaurants and shops, from a men’s concept store with a denim bar and barbershop to an eatery by chef Elena Reygadas where sweets include chocolate-vanilla conchas and guava sweet breads stuffed with creamy ricotta.

Here, your insider’s guide to the not-to-miss spots along Calle Havre.

The Pack & Napoleón: Havre 46

Founded by Patricio Campillo Taracena to honor his family’s cultural heritage, The Pack is a men’s fashion brand reinventing charro, a once social- and racial-exclusive dress based on the country’s prized horsemanship culture and charrería, Mexico’s national sport (akin to a rodeo competition). Each piece—from smocked linen sweaters to denim- or goat-skin jackets—features ecologically-sustainable materials and is manufactured with fair-trade principles. Also housed in the studio is Napoleón, a brand by Taracena and Paola Quintero with ready-to-wear women’s pieces like leather trench coats and neutral bodysuits.

Havre Cancino: Havre 64

This basement-floor pizzeria offers indoor-outdoor seating in an intimate, exposed-brick building built in the early 1900s. Full of retro charm, the eatery is adorned in black-and-white tiles and offers savory starters like fried calamari and quinoa- and chia-seed croquettes—plus a slew of wood-fired pizzas, from a crowd-favorite topped in Oaxaca cheese and huitlacoche (a fungus that grows on corn) and a classic Neapolitan-style margherita pie. Mezcal- and gin-based cocktails are served in mason jars, and Italian, Spanish, and Mexican wines are available by the glass.

Casa Caballeria: Havre 64

Set above Havre Cancino is Casa Caballeria, a multi-floor emporium of the country’s finest made-in-Mexico goods, from fair-trade Sandovalis perfumes produced with ancestral practices in the Yucatan Peninsula to new-age grooming accessories for men by Mensch & Co. Beyond the second-floor barbershop is a third-floor denim bar and smoke shop, an area that opens to an additional suite with racks featuring silk and velvet kimonos by SKVM, embroidered bomber jackets by Amor & Rosas, and oversized ponchos with graphic prints by PAY’S.

Simple by Trista: Havre 76


Courtesy Simple by Trista    

Launched by Giovanni Estrada and Alexis Meza, Simple by Trista offers sophisticated, versatile garments that verge on textile experimentation, from unisex distressed denim ponchos to ultra-feminine, open-back linen crop tops in oatmeal and black. Also available at the shop is a selection of wallets, bound journals, and luggage tags by Robin Archives, a line of leather goods produced by designers Paola Viloria and Laura Olavarri.

Sobremesa: Havre 70


Courtesy Sobremesa

Expanding operations from its Roma Norte outpost, Sobremesa launched its second cooking-school location on Havre 70 within one of the streets most stunning turn-of-the-century buildings. Beyond a blue-tiled façade decked with cherry-red doors, owner Lucía Benítez hosts events with the city’s top culinary experts, from Ayurvedic workshops where participates learn how to make detoxifying meals to experiences with chefs like Lucho Martinez of Milia, who unveil the secrets of Mexican-Japanese cuisine.

Café Nin: Havre 73


Courtesy Cafe Nin

This split-level, all-day brick café by chef Elena Reygadas is adored for many reasons, but especially for the production of its pastries like croissants with fig jam and honey and a flaky, buttery sweet bread stuffed with tart guava fruit and ricotta. Specialty coffees are available, as are macadamia nut and date juices to pair with hearty egg dishes like baked tomato quiche and chilaquiles with salsa verde and burrata. Dinner includes hearty risottos and a selection of natural wine by the glass.

Havre 77 Brasserie & Huîtrerie: Havre 77

One part brasserie, one part huîtrerie, this classic French bistro by chef Eduardo García offers delectable cuisine amidst minimalist, natural-wood interiors in a renovated mansion. Open for both lunch and dinner and replete with an oyster bar, not-to-miss dishes include homemade pork pate, creamy tagliatelle, and a slow-cooked, 17-hour beef bourguignon—plus a range of fresh catch that can include lobster, Bluefin tuna, or sea bass.

Galeria Mexicana de Diseño: Havre 77

Launched by Carmen Cordera Lascurain, Galeria Mexicana de Diseño is dedicated to promoting the native design culture of Mexico, from textiles and jewelry to graphic arts and interiors. Home to a diminutive studio space, the outpost sells and displays made-in-Mexico products and hosts regular exhibitions like its current iteration, Miscelánea, curated by industrial designer Luis Vega based on popular Mexican culture as seen in markets, grocery stores, and canteens.

Sushi Kyo: Havre 77


Courtesy Sushi Kyo 

Centered around a Japanese-style wooden bar, this fine dining eatery by the Edo Kobayashi Group hosts diners by reservation only. Set on the second-floor of a restored colonial mansion and offering only 13 seats in a clandestine setting, a team of Japanese chefs create a menu of sushi and nigari based on seasonal fresh catch. Two omakase menus are available—replete with soup, appetizers, and dessert—and pair well with the outpost’s extensive range of Japanese sake, shochu and whiskey.

Carla Fernandez: Marsella 72


Edmund Sumner/Courtesy Carla Fernandez

Inspired by the geometric shapes and the rich textile heritage of Mexico, Carla Fernandez works with the country’s indigenous communities to craft a contemporary line of clothing, textiles and housewares. The designers most recent opening includes her new avant-garde space on the corner of Calle Havre and Calle Marsella in collaboration with her husband, artist and architect Pedro Reyes, which features textiles woven on a hand loom and handmade decorative masks from artisans in Guerrero.

Masala y Maiz: Marsella 72

Sharing the same building as the Carla Fernandez store, here chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval combine the flavors of South Asia, East Africa and Mexico at Masala y Maiz. The menu—featuring dishes like fried chicken served with cardamom sweet potato puree and corn esquites drenched in fresh coconut milk, ginger and turmeric and topped with cotija cheese—reflects the couple’s close relationships with organic producers and sustainable seafood outfits, plus their natural wine list changes weekly and features bottles by some of Mexico’s finest vintners.

Marsella 68: Marsella 68


Courtesy Marsella 68

Also located near the cross-section of Calle Havre and Calle Marsella is the new Marsella 68 concept shop featuring goods by some of Mexico City’s top fashion and design brands. Visitors can shop colorful leather handbags, wallets, and backpacks by Gag Bag, sustainably-made unisex pieces by Grieve, obsidian art and objects by Punta de Lanza, and patchouli- and jasmine-scented perfumes by Monolito.