MELBOURNE WILL ALWAYS be home to me. Despite living elsewhere from time to time, I often return to the city where I was born and raised for my fix of all the things that make it wonderful: people, food, art, culture, music, and, yes, coffee. Some might say we take it a little too seriously, but we truly believe we have the most exceptional coffee in the world.
Where Sydney’s aesthetic allure is apparent in its sparkling harbor and sun-drenched beaches, Melbourne’s is more obscure. The feeling here is laid-back — our charm lies in the richness of our cultural offering and buzzing creative energy. You can always find a new art gallery or bar to explore, local live music, or an inviting park or green space for enjoying the scene. We’re also Australia’s most culturally diverse city, so you can sample any cuisine you like. In short: There is always something to discover in Melbourne if you scratch a little below the surface. Here are a few of my favorite places.
Where to Eat and Drink
Cibi
A remarkable Japanese cafe and concept store
Cibi (meaning “little one” in Japanese) has been a mainstay of the backstreets of the Collingwood neighborhood for the past 15 years. Housed in a beautiful warehouse on Keele Street, the concept store has Japanese design goods and homewares, a plant store, and a...
Cibi (meaning “little one” in Japanese) has been a mainstay of the backstreets of the Collingwood neighborhood for the past 15 years. Housed in a beautiful warehouse on Keele Street, the concept store has Japanese design goods and homewares, a plant store, and a cafe with excellent breakfast and lunch. I recommend visiting on a weekday to enjoy the Japanese breakfast plate, which is based on the owner’s grandmother’s "asagohan" (breakfast). This traditional offering comes with a grilled sliced salmon filet, a free-range Tamagoyaki omelet, seasonal vegetables, aemono, potato salad, Cibi rice blend, and a hearty miso soup.
Marion Wine Bar
Consistently exceptional all-day dining
This is always my first recommendation for visitors. Come to Marion Wine Bar any time of day — breakfast (weekends only) is a delight, as are long, sunny sidewalk lunches or intimate cozy dinners on winter evenings. The menu changes daily, but check out...
This is always my first recommendation for visitors. Come to Marion Wine Bar any time of day — breakfast (weekends only) is a delight, as are long, sunny sidewalk lunches or intimate cozy dinners on winter evenings. The menu changes daily, but check out mainstays like the flatbread with fromage blanc. I normally begin with seafood — there is always a fresh selection of oysters and crudo — followed by a pasta or porterhouse to share with a friend. The meat is exceptional, and comes from chef and owner Andrew McConnell’s sister butcher shop, Meatsmith. Their selection of wines is also top-notch.
Gimlet at Cavendish House
An intimate meal with unwavering hospitality
Set inside the 1920s Cavendish House, Gimlet is a must for a really special, intimate meal. The interiors are stunning and the service is unparalleled. Like Marion, this is another gem by acclaimed Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell. I recommend...
Set inside the 1920s Cavendish House, Gimlet is a must for a really special, intimate meal. The interiors are stunning and the service is unparalleled. Like Marion, this is another gem by acclaimed Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell. I recommend booking one of the leather booths or the upstairs private dining room if you have a big group. At the risk of sounding obvious, you really shouldn't leave without trying the house gimlet, made with a house citrus cordial.
Gerald's Bar
An old-school neighborhood wine bar
A Melbourne institution since 2006, Gerald’s Bar is tucked away in the leafy Rathdowne Village of Carlton North. Grab a seat at this charming, old-school neighborhood wine bar and take in the casual vibe, loud music, free-flowing wine, and delicious food....
A Melbourne institution since 2006, Gerald’s Bar is tucked away in the leafy Rathdowne Village of Carlton North. Grab a seat at this charming, old-school neighborhood wine bar and take in the casual vibe, loud music, free-flowing wine, and delicious food. You'll find the ever-changing menu written on a roll of paper that hangs off the sliding ladder the barmen use to reach top-shelf bottles. Just ask them to slide the ladder over toward you to get a better view.
Hope St Radio
A community radio station with outdoor dining
I recommend heading to the arts precinct and community hub that is Collingwood Yards (once a technical school) for a drink and a bite to eat at Hope St Radio. A much-loved community radio station, Hope St now broadcasts from a ground-floor space within the...
I recommend heading to the arts precinct and community hub that is Collingwood Yards (once a technical school) for a drink and a bite to eat at Hope St Radio. A much-loved community radio station, Hope St now broadcasts from a ground-floor space within the Collingwood Yards overlooking a lovely, spacious, leafy courtyard. If you are feeling peckish, head chef Ellie Bouhadana dishes up an ever-changing menu of delicious food that you can enjoy under the big trees outside. I suggest the chef’s focaccia with whipped butter and Yurrita anchovies. This is a very inclusive and inviting space.
Where to Stay
United Places
An unmatched boutique hotel experience
United Places is situated right across from the Royal Botanic Gardens in the Domain Road Village known for its historic mansions and art deco architecture. I recommend booking their spacious north-facing suite that offers stunning views of the botanic...
United Places is situated right across from the Royal Botanic Gardens in the Domain Road Village known for its historic mansions and art deco architecture. I recommend booking their spacious north-facing suite that offers stunning views of the botanic gardens and city skyline. It has the most extraordinary sunken bath underneath a huge picture window, allowing you to take it all in. The design is impeccable, with thoughtful and lush interiors and high-end international art pieces throughout. The suites are flooded with natural light and generously proportioned with separate living and dining areas, kitchen and laundry facilities, large sleeping quarters, and an en-suite bathroom with a rain shower stocked with Le Labo products. Breakfast is served below at Matilda 159 Domain by famed Melbourne chef Scott Pickett.
Napier Quarter Guesthouse
A thoughtfully designed stay with local touches
On the other side of town, nestled into a backstreet corner of Fitzroy, Napier Quarter is both a neighborhood wine bar and guesthouse. The guesthouse sits above the wine bar and is a thoughtfully designed accommodation for one or two people....
On the other side of town, nestled into a backstreet corner of Fitzroy, Napier Quarter is both a neighborhood wine bar and guesthouse. The guesthouse sits above the wine bar and is a thoughtfully designed accommodation for one or two people. It's comfortable and well-stocked with local products featured throughout, including Aesop products in the bathroom, handmade linens in the bedroom, and local ceramics in the kitchen. But the best bit? You can just pop downstairs for a coffee or wine at any time of the day.
Advertisement
Where to Explore
National Gallery of Victoria
A must-visit Melbourne museum
No visit to Melbourne is complete without a trip to our iconic National Gallery of Victoria (the “NGV”). Check out one of the current exhibitions or the Indigenous and non-Indigenous art on display at NGV Australia at Federation Square — one...
No visit to Melbourne is complete without a trip to our iconic National Gallery of Victoria (the “NGV”). Check out one of the current exhibitions or the Indigenous and non-Indigenous art on display at NGV Australia at Federation Square — one of Melbourne's most notable cultural experiences. Keep an eye on NGV Friday Nights, which run from December through to April, showcasing after-hours art, live music, and entertainment.
Heide Museum of Modern Art
An unexpected experience
The Heide Museum of Modern Art makes for a calming and peaceful escape from the city with 15 acres of gardens and sculpture parks, and its unique combination of art, architecture, and social history. If you’re feeling active, you could even...
The Heide Museum of Modern Art makes for a calming and peaceful escape from the city with 15 acres of gardens and sculpture parks, and its unique combination of art, architecture, and social history. If you’re feeling active, you could even choose to ride a bicycle along a lovely, flat bike trail. Also at the museum is the Heide Kitchen, which offers a spectacular, new on-site dining experience for visitors, featuring organically grown seasonal produce from Heide’s two kitchen gardens and other local produce, following a renovation of the previously named Heide Cafe. You can choose to dine in or take away coffee and baguettes as you wander around the property. Picnic baskets will soon be available for purchase as well.
Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria - Melbourne Gardens
A calming oasis of Australian flora
An expansive green space right on the edge of the city, Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens is an absolute must-visit. Sitting peacefully alongside the Yarra River, with a roughly two-mile running track around its...
An expansive green space right on the edge of the city, Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens is an absolute must-visit. Sitting peacefully alongside the Yarra River, with a roughly two-mile running track around its perimeter (affectionately known by locals as “The Tan”), the botanic gardens are home to more than 8,500 plant species, gorgeous lakes, and plenty of quiet, shaded places to sit and relax. It is also a significant cultural site for the local Kulin nation, and you can join an Aboriginal Heritage Walk with a First Peoples guide. Not as well known, even amongst locals, is the southeast, suburban location of the Royal Botanic Gardens. The Cranbourne gardens span approximately 865 gorgeously landscaped acres, with a focus on Australian flora that includes more than 170,000 native plants.
Shopping in Fitzroy
A superior shopping district
For the best shopping in Melbourne, I head to Fitzroy. I love strolling tree-lined Gertrude Street with all of its independent boutiques. In particular, I would never miss popping into the local brand Handsom. As their tagline says, they make nice...
For the best shopping in Melbourne, I head to Fitzroy. I love strolling tree-lined Gertrude Street with all of its independent boutiques. In particular, I would never miss popping into the local brand Handsom. As their tagline says, they make nice clothes — their well-crafted garments last forever. Also check out Rose Chong, a Fitzroy institution for almost 30 years and a costume shop complete with wig styling whose catchphrase is “walk in as yourself, walk out as someone else entirely.” Then swing by Aesop (did I mention it was started here?). Around Brunswick Street, you will find Kloke, another Melbourne brand that offers timeless, contemporary clothes and accessories for men and women.
Northcote Theatre
A cutting-edge music venue in an historic setting
Unsuspecting visitors could easily miss an incredible experience here at this enchanting new venue in Melbourne’s inner north area. The first electrified building in Northcote over 100 years ago, this heritage-listed building has stood proudly on High...
Unsuspecting visitors could easily miss an incredible experience here at this enchanting new venue in Melbourne’s inner north area. The first electrified building in Northcote over 100 years ago, this heritage-listed building has stood proudly on High Street since 1912 — and is now an important venue for music, art, performance, and community in Melbourne. Having recently been restored, you can catch a live show in its grand, ornate theater with a sweeping, tiered mezzanine. I was lucky enough to see Sharon Van Etten play here and it was exhilarating. Beforehand, grab a hearty lasagna and a nice wine at 1800 Lasagne just up the road.
AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARD MEMBER ACCESS
Book Travel with American Express
Whether you’re planning a weekend staycation or the trip of a lifetime, you can plan your entire trip through American Express Travel. Plus, make the most of your journey with travel benefits and more. Learn more.
Our Contributors
Georgia Hopkins Writer
Georgia Hopkins is an Australian travel writer. The founder of travel platform It’s Beautiful Here, Hopkins' writing has appeared in the Evening Standard, Harper’s BAZAAR, Conde Nast Traveler, Vogue Australia, New York Times T-Australia, est.living, and others. Hopkins is Travel Editor for Australia’s Primer Magazine. In addition, she provides a personalized concierge service to help clients curate their dream holiday.
