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THERE’S A SAYING that might perfectly describe a New Yorker fleeing the muggy Manhattan streets for the breezy coast of Los Angeles: “Find your beach.” Which is exactly what I did this past summer (and beaches I did find!). More to come on those. However, the slogan for my month on the West Coast was actually coined because of something a little, well, juicier.
A few days into my visit, I’d grabbed a tender stone fruit from my friend’s kitchen, mindlessly biting into it. Sweet and tangy with a snappy flesh the color of golden hour, it was the most perfect peach I’d ever tasted. I devoured the thing, juices running down my chin, gnawing on the pit to get the last bits of flavor. I couldn’t remember the last time I had a piece of fruit that psychedelically delicious — not to mention the last time I felt so stirred by produce. Rinsing the stickiness off my face and hands, I basked in the afterglow, watching the leaves outside the kitchen window shimmy in the wind.
I shared the spiritual fruit moment with my fellow editors, one of whom wrote in our group chat: “There’s that saying ‘Find your beach’ … Maybe the real one is ‘Find your peach!’” Little did my colleague know, he clairvoyantly taglined exactly what would make my month in LA so earnestly sweet. During that August escape, there were so many moments in which I felt struck by the simple pleasures, in awe of how nature could produce such tastes, such textures, such tones. I had far fewer plans in LA than I usually have in New York — my days mostly punctuated by beach walks, work, and exercise. It was a quiet, luxuriant haze of honeyed skies, old-glamour hotels, and cool, salty-aired evenings — as luscious and ephemeral as biting into that perfect peach.
Where to Stay
LA has no shortage of iconic, old-glamour hotels with storied pasts. These classics are all clustered on the west side — on or near the beach.The Peninsula Beverly Hills
For feeling utterly pampered
With tinkling classical music in the rosy lobby, damask couches, and a sparkling chandelier above, The Peninsula is LA’s classically opulent enclave. My room felt like an incredible place to throw myself onto the bed in a silk robe with...
With tinkling classical music in the rosy lobby, damask couches, and a sparkling chandelier above, The Peninsula is LA’s classically opulent enclave. My room felt like an incredible place to throw myself onto the bed in a silk robe with feathered mules. On the pillows were cases monogrammed in fine, silvery thread. The pillows were also of different firmness levels — terribly fun to head-test at night. One of the hotel’s wellness experts ran a beautiful bath for me, filling the hot water with mineral-rich salts and therapeutic essential oils. And for a livelier way to unwind, the bar downstairs is a dim, sexy place to enjoy a classic martini. Another amazing feature: The hotel’s Peninsula Time allows earlier check-ins (as early as 6 a.m.) and later checkouts (as late as 10 p.m.).
Hotel Bel-Air
A verdant, storied hideaway
Synonymous with Hollywood royalty, the Hotel Bel-Air is a leafy secret garden hidden up in the hills. The entire property is hushed and iconic, dotted with the portraits and memories of its former guests: the likes of Grace Kelly, Cary Grant, Marilyn...
Synonymous with Hollywood royalty, the Hotel Bel-Air is a leafy secret garden hidden up in the hills. The entire property is hushed and iconic, dotted with the portraits and memories of its former guests: the likes of Grace Kelly, Cary Grant, Marilyn Monroe, and Audrey Hepburn. The chaos of modern life ceases to exist within these walls, where swans glide through the pond and fires glow at night. One of my favorite parts of the room was the outdoor fireplace, where I’d sit and work by the glow before dipping into the private hot tub. Wandering through the property, I passed an enclosed garden area where Bing Crosby’s “Around the World (In Eighty Days)” was lilting through the leaves. It was a moment of old-timey magic that perfectly encapsulated this storied place.
Santa Monica Proper
A sexy, buzzy, high-design atmosphere
Under the creative vision of our beloved contributor, design legend Kelly Wearstler, the Santa Monica Proper is a vibrant and lively feast for the senses. It’s also home to a gorgeous lobby where each material, from marble to wood, tile to leather,...
Under the creative vision of our beloved contributor, design legend Kelly Wearstler, the Santa Monica Proper is a vibrant and lively feast for the senses. It’s also home to a gorgeous lobby where each material, from marble to wood, tile to leather, tells a story. My first evening at the hotel, I sat at the rooftop bar for a spread of mezze and mezcal while beautiful crowds stood shoulder to shoulder in various states of revelry — a mix of European guests and local visitors there for a drink or bite with friends, adding a lively neighborhood feel to the place. An especially fun detail was the hotel’s Alcove Package, where you can rent private alcoves by the pool with food and drink service. I had some friends come and hang; we lazed in and out of the water enjoying fresh fruit, dips, and juices in between.
Shutters On The Beach
A prime location for exploring
Shutters is delightfully walkable to great food and shopping, with the exclusive feel of a coastal hideaway. Right across from the beach in Santa Monica, it’s within walking distance to Main Street’s charming restaurants and boutiques, and to...
Shutters is delightfully walkable to great food and shopping, with the exclusive feel of a coastal hideaway. Right across from the beach in Santa Monica, it’s within walking distance to Main Street’s charming restaurants and boutiques, and to Venice: an electric, bohemian neighborhood with buzzy bars and vintage shopping. The decor is reminiscent of destinations like Cape Cod or Nantucket, with crisp seafaring white wood, roaring fireplaces in the lobby, and plush, stately beds with ocean views. In the evenings, there’s live music in the lobby, a dim, cozy place to leaf through coffee table books and enjoy a nightcap.
Malibu Beach Inn
For the best beach access in all of LA
The Malibu Beach Inn has the most laid-back staff with the best recommendations. At any point, they’d list their favorite spots around the hotel, zooming into the little unmarked parts of Google Maps to point out the local crystal store or seafood joint....
The Malibu Beach Inn has the most laid-back staff with the best recommendations. At any point, they’d list their favorite spots around the hotel, zooming into the little unmarked parts of Google Maps to point out the local crystal store or seafood joint. I’d walk a few minutes down the shore to a midpoint at Surfrider Beach, across from the lagoon and in front of the rock break. In this slice of aquamarine heaven, I’d watch the surfers ride big waves while experiencing the Mediterranean-like calm created by the rock break. By golden hour, I’d sit on my balcony and get lost in the vast horizon, then move inside to cozy up before the fireplace. At the patio restaurant overlooking the water, the tide comes up so high that you feel you’re floating above the sea. I saw seals bobbing above the surface, hunting for their dinner while I had mine.
Where to Eat
The produce and seafood on California’s coast is famously divine. These new, upscale restaurants feature the best of the bounty (plus one amazing, casual spot).Manzke
A dazzling tasting menu for special occasions
This was one of the most memorable meals of my year. With dishes like bluefin tuna and salsa fresca tostada, Kaluga caviar with smoked heirloom tomato panna cotta, Japanese hamachi with melon and nuoc cham, and Maine lobster with corn and Thai curry, each course...
This was one of the most memorable meals of my year. With dishes like bluefin tuna and salsa fresca tostada, Kaluga caviar with smoked heirloom tomato panna cotta, Japanese hamachi with melon and nuoc cham, and Maine lobster with corn and Thai curry, each course was a moan-inducing, heavenly balance of salt, fat, and acid. Service is incredibly discerning, and the space reminded me of an old, refined library. As for drinks, I began with a cocktail called Lemon Verbena, made of gin, limoncello, yogurt, lemon, and sparkling water — a tart, tangy burst of sun on the tongue — followed by a beautifully orchestrated wine pairing.
Mes Amis
A grand brasserie with a honeyed atmosphere
This warmly lit brasserie is a romantic spot for a golden night, with deep banquets and little fuss. With convivial service setting the tone, dishes are deeply satisfying and crisply executed. The team recommends starting with a platter of raw chilled seafood....
This warmly lit brasserie is a romantic spot for a golden night, with deep banquets and little fuss. With convivial service setting the tone, dishes are deeply satisfying and crisply executed. The team recommends starting with a platter of raw chilled seafood. We did the Petite Shellfish Plateau, plump and snappy over ice, followed by a lean cut of duck with perfectly rendered fat. My partner had a savory vegetable galette, its flaky crust clearly the work of an expert pastry chef. Another delicate delight was the chicken liver mousse napoleon in a puff pastry with a prune gastrique — a perfect touch of bright fruit to the creamy nuttiness of the savory mousse.
Meteora
A jungle-like ambiance with explorative cuisine
Meteora is a world somewhere between Tulum and Mars. There’s sexy, synthy music pulsing throughout and biophilic interiors. A skylight lets in a dark expanse of the outdoors and the space is full of wild growth — sprouting plants, hanging vines, and...
Meteora is a world somewhere between Tulum and Mars. There’s sexy, synthy music pulsing throughout and biophilic interiors. A skylight lets in a dark expanse of the outdoors and the space is full of wild growth — sprouting plants, hanging vines, and mushroom-shaped pedestals. The cuisine feels both futuristic and prehistoric, otherworldly yet elemental. A dish simply called Golden Tomato is a highlight here, “warmed in a bath of olive oil and lavender, served over a soft tofu of smoked almond milk, caramelized squash, squash blossoms, cape gooseberries, aji amarillo, and chamomile.” The tofu tasted silky like flan and savory like a Japanese egg custard. The roasted tomatoes were hand poured by Chef Jordan Kahn, followed by a drizzle of oil that hit with a hiss. I had a cocktail called Ossum that tasted uncannily like cherry pie.
Pasjoli
For inspired French cuisine
Fun fact: this is one of the kitchens where Jeremy Allen White trained to act as a chef in Hulu’s acclaimed show “The Bear.” While that show gave me anxiety, Pasjoli gave me culinary serenity. At the helm is Chef Dave Beran, and this meal was exceptional. A...
Fun fact: this is one of the kitchens where Jeremy Allen White trained to act as a chef in Hulu’s acclaimed show “The Bear.” While that show gave me anxiety, Pasjoli gave me culinary serenity. At the helm is Chef Dave Beran, and this meal was exceptional. A standout moment was a peeled, cold tomato, like a glistening carnelian orb, filled with tuna tartare that sat in a light pool of fermented tomato vinaigrette and yogurt crème. Another delight was entitled Gnocchi Parisienne: pillowy gnocchi, playful twins in appearance to the dish’s tender, snappy bay scallops, bathed together in a sauce of avocado purée, beech mushroom, scallion beurre blanc, and mint. Every dish, culminating in a succulent duck spread served three ways that was deserving of its own party, was both delicious and unserious: fun to eat, fun to share with friends.
mdk noodles
A no-frills Koreatown treasure
Being half Korean, I’m plagued by a syndrome wherein if I don’t eat Korean food once a week, I start to feel anemic and enraged, like a transitioning vampire. Thankfully, I got my broth and dumpling fix here one night in a piping hot, salty bowl of mandu-guk...
Being half Korean, I’m plagued by a syndrome wherein if I don’t eat Korean food once a week, I start to feel anemic and enraged, like a transitioning vampire. Thankfully, I got my broth and dumpling fix here one night in a piping hot, salty bowl of mandu-guk (dumpling soup). With fluorescent lighting and not a banquette in sight, this no-nonsense Korean spot is no less a sparkling national treasure for all who get to dine there. My partner got kal-guksu (knife-cut noodles in a rich chicken broth), which I greedily took from his bowl between wild slurps from my own. The kimchi in their banchan tastes like what my grandma makes — i.e., sublime.
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Where to Shop
An aesthetic holy trinity exists in LA — breezy apparel for wearing, Western boots for walking, and earthy crystals for healing. These destination-worthy stores are great spots to obtain them all.Des Kohan
For beautifully crafted, unique staples
This little boutique is a hidden oasis with a focus on independent labels and striking cuts. Racks are lined with thick knits, architectural dresses in avant-garde shapes, and flowy, wide-legged tailored pants. My eyes lit up when I saw they carried my all-time...
This little boutique is a hidden oasis with a focus on independent labels and striking cuts. Racks are lined with thick knits, architectural dresses in avant-garde shapes, and flowy, wide-legged tailored pants. My eyes lit up when I saw they carried my all-time favorite slip-dress line: Organic by John Patrick, the best kept secret of the silk slip world. I bought the floor-length Ankle Slip in Black and have been patiently waiting for someone to get married so I can wear it.
Terminal 27
For an extraterrestrial shopping experience
I stumbled upon this store completely by accident. It quite literally ushered me in. The unassuming automatic doors slid open on their own to reveal the sleekest hidden courtyard surrounded by striking all-white showrooms encased in black matte steel. To say...
I stumbled upon this store completely by accident. It quite literally ushered me in. The unassuming automatic doors slid open on their own to reveal the sleekest hidden courtyard surrounded by striking all-white showrooms encased in black matte steel. To say this place is cool is an understatement. Clothing as well as swimwear in techy performance fabric, spanning neutral tones and swirling vibrant neons, are merchandised like art pieces on one long curved rack. There’s also a chic magazine selection featuring indie periodicals like Sex Magazine, The Greatest, and The Paris Review.
Topanga Rocks
A hidden, mystical spot for crystals and furniture
I believe this store to be magical. Located above Malibu, up in the hills of Topanga, I heard this store was a great place to find crystals. Off the side of the road in a canyon alcove of sorts, the establishment’s grounds are covered in a maze of intricate...
I believe this store to be magical. Located above Malibu, up in the hills of Topanga, I heard this store was a great place to find crystals. Off the side of the road in a canyon alcove of sorts, the establishment’s grounds are covered in a maze of intricate Balinese wooden furniture and sparkling geodes. There are busts of Buddha, shrines, and a waterfall under a perfectly curved tree. I found some very special crystals here, each holding meaning that was patiently explained to me by the store’s incredibly soothing owner.
Boot Star Los Angeles
A vast showcase of Western craftsmanship
I have a fascination with ranch aesthetic, the mystery and attitude of it, the rakish intersection between utility and showmanship. So this store was a real treat to explore, where beautiful craftsmanship is on display. The space has a beautiful...
I have a fascination with ranch aesthetic, the mystery and attitude of it, the rakish intersection between utility and showmanship. So this store was a real treat to explore, where beautiful craftsmanship is on display. The space has a beautiful selection of cowboy boots, cowboy hats, embroidered shirts, and bolero jackets — I wanted a black one with curly white embroidery and talked myself out of buying it (but am now haunted by its memory).
Lost & Found
For all things flowy
This bright, airy boutique has a vast collection of equally bright, airy pieces in all manner of silks, linens, and knits. It’s vacation clothing at its best, mixed in with darker, more urban, transitional pieces too. The space itself is attractive — a...
This bright, airy boutique has a vast collection of equally bright, airy pieces in all manner of silks, linens, and knits. It’s vacation clothing at its best, mixed in with darker, more urban, transitional pieces too. The space itself is attractive — a whitewashed warehouse dotted with colorful home goods in velvets and jutes. They stock a plethora of bohemian brands, like Xírena, a personal favorite. I snatched up a bright orange linen blouse for my fantasy beach life and a versatile black dress for my real life.
AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARD MEMBER ACCESS
Fine Hotels + Resorts®
The hotels mentioned above are all Fine Hotels + Resorts properties. When you book with American Express Travel, you’ll receive an exclusive suite of benefits including daily breakfast for two, a $100 experience credit that varies by property, guaranteed 4pm check-out, and more. Plus, book on AmexTravel.com and you can earn 5X Membership Rewards® points, or use Pay with Points, on prepaid stays. Terms apply. Learn more here.
Our Contributors
Sophie Mancini Writer
Sophie Mancini is an editor at Departures. Born and raised in New York City, she holds a degree in creative writing from Johns Hopkins University and has a background as a writer in brand and editorial.
