MY CONNECTION TO London’s cuisine goes back generations. My maternal grandmother’s family were London butchers and pub managers, while my maternal great-grandfather found work on the Victoria and Albert docks in East London, unloading cargoes of grain, meat, fruit, and vegetables.
I grew up on the far southwest coast of England, in Cornwall, regularly visiting family living in the capital. I went to a university on London’s outskirts, then moved into the city proper after graduation, and I’ve never left. London has been the backdrop of my most significant milestones, and many of those have been celebrated in the restaurants and cafes you’ll read about here. I celebrated my marriage at The Drapers Arms, was asked to be a bridesmaid at Kiln, and, early in my career, researched my first-ever article with a far more senior, very generous journalist at The Eagle Farringdon.
London is vast and ever-evolving, so being asked to write a food guide feels at first like an impossible task. The spots I’ve chosen carry personal history, but they are also the kinds of eateries you can connect with on the first visit. If you want to gain insight into authentic London, these are my picks.
Coffee, Breakfast, and Pastries
Pophams Bakery
Inventive seasonal pastries
While living in North London, this was my go-to for lazy weekend breakfasts. The bakery sits among a parade of shops in the Islington district and is always buzzing — for good reason. The bakers take the classics to new heights and are inventive and...
While living in North London, this was my go-to for lazy weekend breakfasts. The bakery sits among a parade of shops in the Islington district and is always buzzing — for good reason. The bakers take the classics to new heights and are inventive and playful with their weekend specials. The bacon-and-maple swirl is a must, and seasonal inventions consistently delight. Think pastries adorned with figs or blood orange. I still can’t get the gin-poached rhubarb, rosemary-infused vanilla custard and lemon crumble pastry out of my head. The layers are crispy and buttery, and the accompanying coffee is expertly made. The interiors recall Scandinavia, with elegant tableware, wooden tables, and a generous smattering of plants. Outside, it’s big tables where diners sit together in convivial, pastry-appreciating happiness.
Bar Italia
Traditional Italian coffee with over 70 years of history
London is flooded with trendy places for a flat white or a cortado, but I love Bar Italia for a proper, old-fashioned coffee. Opened by Italian couple Lou and Caterina Polledri in 1949, the cafe has been caffeinating Londoners ever since. Frith Street, unlike...
London is flooded with trendy places for a flat white or a cortado, but I love Bar Italia for a proper, old-fashioned coffee. Opened by Italian couple Lou and Caterina Polledri in 1949, the cafe has been caffeinating Londoners ever since. Frith Street, unlike much of the neighborhood of Soho, has clung to its original character, and Bar Italia is a big part of that. It seems nothing about the decor has changed since the ’40s: a steel bar, diner-style leather cushioned stools, framed sports memorabilia, a delightfully wonky tiled floor, ancient Gaggia coffee machine. The fridge is full of tempting mugs of homemade tiramisu and Sicilian cannoli. On a sunny day, grab a metal chair out front and people-watch; if it’s raining (what could feel more London?), take refuge indoors.
The Wolseley
Breakfast in a grand environment
Many people head to The Wolseley for afternoon tea, but make your reservation for breakfast instead — it’s when the grand dining room feels particularly tranquil. A checkerboard floor, marble tabletops, grand chandeliers, and a sweeping staircase leading to...
Many people head to The Wolseley for afternoon tea, but make your reservation for breakfast instead — it’s when the grand dining room feels particularly tranquil. A checkerboard floor, marble tabletops, grand chandeliers, and a sweeping staircase leading to a mezzanine make for a truly elegant space, which is rare for a place so central. Suited waiters glide from table to table, offering warm, attentive service. The breakfast menu is full of English classics, but I recommend the eggs benedict, with a perfectly balanced hollandaise. If you decide to visit as a walk-in, you’ll wait in the Wes Anderson-esque bar, and it wouldn’t be the worst idea to order the house Bloody Mary.
Dishoom
Iranian-Indian breakfast treats
Styled on the old Irani cafes of Mumbai, Dishoom is genuinely transportive, with its dark wooden tables and ornate tiles. The bacon-and-egg naan roll is a must-try. The naan is pillowy soft and slightly sweet, the bacon satisfyingly salty, and the accompanying...
Styled on the old Irani cafes of Mumbai, Dishoom is genuinely transportive, with its dark wooden tables and ornate tiles. The bacon-and-egg naan roll is a must-try. The naan is pillowy soft and slightly sweet, the bacon satisfyingly salty, and the accompanying egg perfectly prepared. I recommend the house chai tea, or, for a boozy start, order a Dhoble, where fresh orange and lemon juices are muddled with vodka, jaggery, and orange bitters and served over ice. There are a few outposts of Dishoom now, but I prefer the King’s Cross location. It allows you to see the nicely restored Granary Square and Coal Drops Yard — industrial sites turned shopping districts — and if you have time after breakfast, you can wander down the canal towpath and take in the Camden Town and Regent’s Park neighborhoods.
Lunch and Dinner
Barrafina
Authentic Spanish cuisine, expertly made
Early on, when dating my Spanish now-husband, I asked where the best Spanish food was in London. He answered without skipping a beat: Barrafina. The original branch, on Dean Street in Soho, has one Michelin star, but there is nothing pretentious or stuffy about...
Early on, when dating my Spanish now-husband, I asked where the best Spanish food was in London. He answered without skipping a beat: Barrafina. The original branch, on Dean Street in Soho, has one Michelin star, but there is nothing pretentious or stuffy about it. It’s walk-in only, and I recommend sitting at the bar so you can watch the chefs expertly fileting fish, marinating, chopping, and plating. The banderillas (a delicious skewer of quail egg, green olives, roasted red bell peppers, and Spanish chili peppers) are an excellent choice, as are the buñuelos de bacalao (crispy fritters filled with a melty cod center served with a smoked paprika-dusted aioli) and gambas rojas — the sweetest, most perfectly cooked prawns I’ve eaten. Wash everything down with a beautifully crisp manzanilla pasada en rama sherry. For dessert, try a light almond Santiago tart and a crema catalana, generously portioned and perfect flavor-wise.
Forza Wine
Small plates, wine, and cocktails with a view
The shiny, polished bits of London are great, but if you want to see “real” London, you have to take an overground train out of the center. Forza Wine is located on a perfectly tranquil rooftop terrace. Whether you sit indoors, encased in glass, or outdoors,...
The shiny, polished bits of London are great, but if you want to see “real” London, you have to take an overground train out of the center. Forza Wine is located on a perfectly tranquil rooftop terrace. Whether you sit indoors, encased in glass, or outdoors, you’ll be treated to views of the higgledy-piggledy rooftops of outer London. Wines come by the glass or bottle, and some by the carafe, and many are organic. If you’re unsure of what you’d like, the friendly, knowledgeable staff is happy to provide tastes and suggestions. The small plates change daily and are thoughtfully prepared — I recommend the grilled flatbread with peas and pecorino, the cauliflower fritti with aioli, and the tiramisu soft serve for dessert, when available. From the inventive rotating cocktail list, the Cynar spritz is the perfect refreshing drink to sip on a sunny afternoon gazing at the sprawl of London.
Tayyabs
Perfectly spiced, family-made curry
Any self-respecting Londoner has their go-to curry joint — and this is mine. Founded in 1972, this family-run Punjabi restaurant is in Whitechapel, a diverse East London neighborhood. The restaurant might look a bit like a ’90s nightclub, but the food is fresh,...
Any self-respecting Londoner has their go-to curry joint — and this is mine. Founded in 1972, this family-run Punjabi restaurant is in Whitechapel, a diverse East London neighborhood. The restaurant might look a bit like a ’90s nightclub, but the food is fresh, bright, and packed with flavor. Go for the classics, but don’t leave without trying the lamb chops, which are spiced to perfection, charred on the outside, juicy on the inside, served sizzling, and accompanied by a cooling mint-and-yogurt raita dip. Wash it all down with a mango lassi.
Padella
Handmade pasta on the edge of Borough Market
London is awash with excellent sourdough pizza, but this Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated lively pasta bar on the fringe of Borough Market is a cut above the rest when it comes to Italian food. Get there early, as they don’t offer reservations, and put your name on...
London is awash with excellent sourdough pizza, but this Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated lively pasta bar on the fringe of Borough Market is a cut above the rest when it comes to Italian food. Get there early, as they don’t offer reservations, and put your name on the list before popping into a nearby pub — they’ll call when a table is ready. The interior is sleek, all stone and steel surfaces, but I prefer sitting outside, taking in the hustle and bustle of this busy junction where old and new London sit side by side. Starter-wise, a creamy ball of burrata cheese drizzled with high-quality, fruity olive oil, a grind of pepper, and a sprinkle of sea salt is divine. Pasta plates are on the smaller side, so I suggest ordering three plates for two people. Don’t leave without sampling the rich and silky pappardelle with eight-hour Dexter beef shin ragu. I also adore the rich yet delicate cacio e pepe pasta with handmade pici, a fat, hand-rolled spaghetti. Pair this with the house Negroni.
The Drapers Arms
Traditional English pub fare with excellent pie
This English pub has become a go-to for celebrations of all kinds, from the simple to the momentous. Light floods the space, which is furnished with simple wooden tables, mismatched benches and chairs, and vases of wildflowers. Outdoors, there’s a sunny...
This English pub has become a go-to for celebrations of all kinds, from the simple to the momentous. Light floods the space, which is furnished with simple wooden tables, mismatched benches and chairs, and vases of wildflowers. Outdoors, there’s a sunny courtyard. They do the English classics perfectly. The suet-crust pies are unrivaled. The sharing dishes and Sunday roasts are hearty and authentic, but the pub also serves more delicate fish dishes and veggie options. Desserts are nostalgic puddings; think warm sweet bread drenched in custard. The wine list runs six pages and offers impressive variety.
Okan
Casual Japanese street food
Brixton Village is a sprawling indoor market that sells everything from traditional African clothing and trendy antiques to fruit and vegetables and fresh fish. It’s also dotted with an eclectic mix of eateries. I love Okan, a canteen in the far back corner that...
Brixton Village is a sprawling indoor market that sells everything from traditional African clothing and trendy antiques to fruit and vegetables and fresh fish. It’s also dotted with an eclectic mix of eateries. I love Okan, a canteen in the far back corner that serves Osaka-style street food. I always order okonomiyaki, which is a mashup between an omelet and a pancake. You can choose your toppings — I prefer pork or squid and kimchi. All are finished with “dancing” dried fish, house brown sauce, and seaweed powder. You’ll find all five flavor profiles — sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and unbelievably delicious umami. Afterward, you can wander around the market in search of dessert.
The Eagle Farringdon
Hearty Mediterranean plates from the original gastropub
The Eagle Farringdon, the U.K.’s first gastropub, opened in 1991. I’ve never had a disappointing meal here. The menu changes twice daily, according to what the grill chef has sourced, and is written on chalkboards above the bar. Just one dish has...
The Eagle Farringdon, the U.K.’s first gastropub, opened in 1991. I’ve never had a disappointing meal here. The menu changes twice daily, according to what the grill chef has sourced, and is written on chalkboards above the bar. Just one dish has been a mainstay throughout — the bifana — a juicy, spiced pork-steak sandwich with soft bread that soaks up the juices without ever becoming soggy. The food has a Mediterranean bent and is cooked fresh — much of it on an open grill just behind the bar. You order at the bar, and your meals are brought to the table. Particular favorites are roasted pork on a bed of lentils and sausage ragu with rigatoni. Dessert-wise, Portuguese custard tarts always feature alongside other Mediterranean favorites, such as “burnt” Basque cheesecake.
Dumplings’ Legend
Handmade dumplings in Chinatown
This is my go-to pre-theater spot. It’s enormous, so you’ll never have to wait long if you arrive and there happens to be a wait. As you enter, you pass a pane of glass, behind which a team is expertly hand-making dumplings. You don’t come here for the...
This is my go-to pre-theater spot. It’s enormous, so you’ll never have to wait long if you arrive and there happens to be a wait. As you enter, you pass a pane of glass, behind which a team is expertly hand-making dumplings. You don’t come here for the service, which is brusque at best, but the food more than makes up for it. The menu is vast, but make a beeline for the dumplings. The spicy pork siu long bao is pleasingly unctuous and umami, while the pork-and-crabmeat bao is also not to be missed. The crispy aromatic duck never disappoints, and the greens are excellent, be it stir-fried Chinese broccoli with ginger paste or stir-fried green beans with minced pork. A word to the wise: If the menu says that a dish is spicy — it is.
Kiln
Thai-inspired dishes cooked over fire
Between Soho and Regent Street, this tiny restaurant packs an impressive punch. I recommend eating upstairs at the bar. The food is Thai with some Yunnan and Burmese influence. The cull yaw (mutton) and cumin skewers are fatty, perfectly spiced, and delicious. Raw...
Between Soho and Regent Street, this tiny restaurant packs an impressive punch. I recommend eating upstairs at the bar. The food is Thai with some Yunnan and Burmese influence. The cull yaw (mutton) and cumin skewers are fatty, perfectly spiced, and delicious. Raw gurnard with spring flowering herbs and lime, a Thai take on ceviche, is fresh and zesty with a spicy kick. The slow-cooked mackerel in banana leaf is perfectly prepared. Cool off with the gin, sour cucumber, and makrut lime-leaf cocktail. The menu is spicy, but let your server know if you want them to dial it down. They don’t do dessert — but you’re in central London, so stroll to Bar Italia!
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Laura Potter Writer
Laura Potter is a freelance writer and editor based in London. Her writing has appeared in some of the UK’s most influential titles, including The Guardian, The Observer, The Times, Men’s Health, and Time Out.
