Travel Diary: Jewelry Designer Pippa Small’s Guide to Jaipur

“I first went to India as a teenager with my older sister Alex. I had been obsessed with India since childhood. I loved the literature, films, myths and legends, the wildlife and mountains and jungles. When I went in the late 1980's for the first time I wasn’t disappointed. she and I travelled for 3 months from the Himalayas, to the deserts of Rajasthan, the Ganges and lakes of Kashmir. I continued visiting different parts of India as I went on to University and studied anthropology and got involved in Human Rights and Indigenous rights. I had no idea that India would eventually become a second home to my children and I."

“I started to design and make jewellery in a more 'professional' way in the 1990's and India was an obvious starting place. Jaipur is a city devoted to gems and to the arts in generals. When the city was growing the Maharaja of the time brought all the best woodworkers, stone carvers, brass, gold and silver workers. textiles artisans  from all over India to create his beautiful city.The city is now a Mecca for designers and artisans. You feel anything is possible in Jaipur, no design too challenging, no stone unfindable, no ancient techniques lost, but the team of artisans I have been working with now for decades have such a wonderful understanding of aesthetic, texture, and sensibility.”

“I have stayed at the Hotel Narain Niwas Palace since I was 17 years old. It is a splendid property of old trees and lawns, meandering peacocks, and playful monkeys, nesting hornbills and parrots. The Singh family have welcomed me like family for years now and I feel it is my unruly and colourful home in India. The rooms are soft ice cream colours and the old chandeliers of bright coloured glass create a rainbow to sleep under.”

“In Jaipur, I love eating at Bar Palladio and Palladio cafe near and  on the grounds of Narain Niwas Palace Hotel, the brilliance of Barbara Miolini and designer Marie-Anne Oudejans. It was the first delicious and beautiful dining space in Jaipur where you can sit outside and enjoy the hot nights and occasionally listen to a concert, or watch a film.. they have created a meeting space and a cultural hub for hungry Jaipuris."

“The Indian Coffee house on MI road is an old institution from pre independence days where freedom fighters gathered and plotted. With elegantly turbaned waiters and cooling cold coffees all under large portraits of Ghandi.”

“I always have a lunch at The Rambagh Palace, the twins race across the lawns and I can watch the goings on in the cool of the white marble veranda. Caught in another time it is always a pleasure to be spoilt for a moment at the Rambagh.”

“The Sujan Raj Mahal Palace, the oldest palace in Jaipur, has been converted into the chicest boutique palace in Jaipur with delicious pink wall paper and elegant matching turbans it is a perfect palace and grounds.”

Shopping is endless in Jaipur from the wonderful Idli, beautiful dresses by the talented Thierry Journo  and Andraab from Kashmir and the sofest cashmere shawls and for hand loomed, natural dyes cotton shirts at Satayam, fun Indian fashion At Hot Pink and more are all in the gardens of Narain Niwas.”

“Polo at Rambagh—polo is more of the peoples sport in India, Every rickshaw driver and street kid is hanging from trees and sitting on the walls watching, they know every player and horse and cheering them on, in the stadium will be local maharajas and glitterati.”

“The newly opened Amrapali Jewellery museum is a must visit, the only jewellery museum in India it highlights the personal collection of Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera of silver and gold jewellery and ornaments from all over india. An inspiring and beautifully curated collection and celebration of Indias brilliant artisans.”

“I escape for peace to the Samode Palace in Samode village. The children love to go on jeep safaris exploring the country side, this time we went to visit the Snake charmers village, a specific caste the snake charmers live together outside the village and are called to remove dangerous snakes from houses and farms, they are experienced with handling cobras and others…they also earn a living charming the snakes with flutes.”