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Where Maine Meets Indonesia: Portland's Danforth Inn

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Raymond Brunyanszki, owner of Camden Harbour Inn and its Natalie’s Restaurant—two DEPARTURES favorites in midcoast Maine—had wanted to open an upscale Southeast Asian restaurant ever since he worked in the region as a tour guide early in his career. He knew he found the right place when he walked into the Danforth Inn while scouting Portland for a second hotel location. “The property brought me back to the colonial houses in Jakarta,” the Dutch owner says of the building’s brick exterior and white columns. Brunyanszki purchased the Danforth in May 2014 and has been renovating each of the 1823 hotel’s nine rooms, one by one, while keeping the property open and setting the service standards on par with those at his Relais & Châteaux–designated hotel farther north.

Brunyanszki’s restaurant became a reality with the Danforth’s recently opened Tempo Dulu, which specializes in rijsttafel, a tapas-style meal with rice that was served when the Dutch colonized Indonesia. Chef Lawrence Klang trained in Southeast Asia to create dishes like Tempo Dulu’s Balinese banana-leaf-steamed duck breast and beef-cheek rendang. Rijsttafel hasn’t caught on in the States, but, surrounded by harbors reminiscent of Indonesia and the Netherlands, Portland is the perfect setting for it to take hold.

Rooms from $169; 163 Danforth St.; 207-879-8755; danforthinn.com

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