To sophisticated American travelers, Spain’s northeastern Costa Brava may seem too touristy to consider. But in and around Begur, about an hour and a half north of the Barcelona airport, is where smart Barcelonans have vacationed for generations. The quaint coastal town is crowned by hilltop ruins of a 16th-century castle that overlooks the central Plaça de la Vila, pedestrian-only streets, secluded coves along the Mediterranean Sea, and Cuban colonial mansions built by local Begurencs who, in the 19th century, left town for Havana and returned after making small fortunes. There are a few hotels in Begur’s medieval center and some options outside of town, but villa rentals are the way to go. The best months to visit are May, June, July, and September to avoid crowds.
Courtesy Aiguaclara
Sleeping: Aiguaclara Hotel & Restaurant
On the street that rings Begur’s central plaza, the stylish Aiguaclara Hotel & Restaurant (rooms from $85; hotelaiguaclara.com) offers ten rooms and one apartment in an 1866 residence and is run by a couple who relocated from Barcelona. The junior suite Aiguaclara has a private terrace and a living room.
Courtesy Mas de Torrent
Sleeping: Mas de Torrent
A 12-minute drive west, Mas de Torrent (rooms from $320; mastorrent.com) is a Relais & Châteaux property with a pretty outdoor pool, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a Natura Bissé spa. On the grounds of an 18th-century farmhouse, the hotel has 38 suites, 10 in the main building and the rest in the gardens. The Jardín suites have terraces; the Naranjo suites, with plunge pools, afford privacy.
Plateresca / Getty Images
Eating In Town: Casa Juanita
One block north and run by the Barreda Martin family since 1978, Casa Juanita (restaurantcasajuanita.es) isn’t fancy, but its eight tables make booking ahead essential. The menu showcases local catches like hake and sea bass prepared in an oak-wood-fired oven.
Getty Images
Eating In Town: El Tapas de Begur
El Tapas de Begur (34-61/695-5980), a tiny bar in Plaça de la Vila with coveted outdoor seating under an olive tree, is a nightly party. It has strong gin and tonics and tapas like avocado purée in pastry cups, spinach pies, and cod balls.
Courtesy Rostei
Eating In Town: Rostei
More upscale, Rostei (rostei.com), a short walk south, has a two-story open-air dining room shaded by a 200-year-old wisteria tree. Chef Josep Maria Esteban changes the menu weekly; order the duck breast if it’s available.
Courtesy Toc al mar
Eating at the Beach: Toc Al Mar
A ten-minute drive south of town, Toc Al Mar (tocalmar.cat) borders the popular Aiguablava beach and serves seafood like grilled octopus with potatoes romesco. Reserve a table for lunch.
Courtesy Tragamar
Eating at the Beach: Tragamar
Another ten minutes south by car, in Calella de Palafrugell, Tragamar (tragamar.com) has outdoor seating with a view of Canadell beach and serves simple salads, such as lentils with red pepper, purple onion, and feta. The ten-minute walk between Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc winds above beaches and passes art installations.
Courtesy Far Nomo
Eating at the Beach: Far Nomo
In the hills overlooking Llafranc, the team behind Barcelona’s Japanese restaurants Nomo and Kuo recently opened an indoor-outdoor sushi spot, Far Nomo (gruponomo.com).
Courtesy Castaner
Shopping: Castañer
Espadrilles are the signature fashion of the region, and the small but well-stocked Castañer (castaner.com) in the nearby town of Llafranc is where to pick up a pair. The brand, founded in 1927, was put on the map when Yves Saint Laurent featured it in a 1960s collection. It has since expanded across Europe, but this is the company’s first shop.
Courtesy Pou Nou
Shopping: Abril Boutique
For locally produced cotton and linen clothes that transition from beach to town, Abril Boutique (34-97/262-3326) specializes in Spanish brands like Pou Nou and Magan.