A Local’s Guide to San Miguel de Allende
Novelist (and resident) Danielle Trussoni shares her favorite restaurants, hotels, and experiences in this magical Mexican city.
I’VE LIVED IN Buenos Aires for my entire life and spent the last five years writing about its dynamic food scene. To me, the city offers everything you could want: welcoming people, striking architecture, a rich and diverse cultural scene, buzzing nightlife, and incredible food and wine. But the city’s best feature is its people. Shortly after arriving, you might find yourself having coffee with a total stranger or a meaningful philosophical conversation with your taxi driver because that's how porteños (the residents of Buenos Aires) are.
Buenos Aires is incredibly culturally diverse; many of its citizens are descended from immigrants from Italy, Spain, and France. There’s also a large population from neighboring countries, such as Bolivia, Paraguay, and Venezuela — and all of this has enriched the city’s cultural and gastronomic offerings. You’ll come across French-influenced architecture, Italian gelaterias, and Spanish-inspired restaurants — all with their own local twist. Here are a few restaurants, hotels, and places not to be missed.
Where to Eat
Oli Café
Casual, all-day cafe with nostalgic bites
Since opening in November of 2021, Oli Café hasn’t had a quiet day. Located in the Palermo neighborhood, the restaurant features offerings inspired by owner Olivia Saal’s childhood. The all-day menu showcases simple, fresh foods with a focus on fruits, vegetables, and international influences....
Since opening in November of 2021, Oli Café hasn’t had a quiet day. Located in the Palermo neighborhood, the restaurant features offerings inspired by owner Olivia Saal’s childhood. The all-day menu showcases simple, fresh foods with a focus on fruits, vegetables, and international influences. Grab a bagel with trout gravlax, sample the fish of the day with a fresh salad and noisette potatoes, or indulge in a sweet and fluffy medialuna: the staple pastry of Argentina and Saal’s specialty long before she opened her restaurant.
Parrilla Peña
Classic fare in a traditional tavern
Located on a quiet street downtown, Parrilla Peña is where to go if you’re looking for quality meat in an authentic setting. In business for over 40 years, it’s one of the few remaining local bodegones, old-school taverns serving comfort food. Start with fried beef empanadas and chorizo, then...
Located on a quiet street downtown, Parrilla Peña is where to go if you’re looking for quality meat in an authentic setting. In business for over 40 years, it’s one of the few remaining local bodegones, old-school taverns serving comfort food. Start with fried beef empanadas and chorizo, then move on to bife de chorizo (rump steak) with a side of french fries a la Provenzal (with garlic and parsley). Dessert is also a must. Go for the cream and dulce de leche flan mixto — the perfect ending to a traditional meal.
Anchoíta Cava
Custom cheese boards and friendly sommeliers
Anchoíta Cava opened in Chacarita, one of the trendiest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, in December 2021. Since then, it's become a must-visit spot for wine, cheese, and charcuterie. The menu showcases more than 50 wines by the glass and almost double that by the bottle — with the majority sourced...
Anchoíta Cava opened in Chacarita, one of the trendiest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, in December 2021. Since then, it's become a must-visit spot for wine, cheese, and charcuterie. The menu showcases more than 50 wines by the glass and almost double that by the bottle — with the majority sourced from Argentina, as the friendly sommeliers reveal. Here, you can create your own custom cheese board with more than 115 selections from all over the country. I recommend cheeses from Ventimiglia, sweetbread pâté with pickled raspberries, and housemade ham from acorn-fed pigs.
Mengano
Modern takes on traditional dishes
Facundo Kelemen was studying to be a lawyer when a semester abroad in Valencia illuminated his true passion: cooking. In 2018, after working in some of the best kitchens in New York City and Buenos Aires, he opened Mengano, where an industrial style is tempered by family photographs. Kelemen...
Facundo Kelemen was studying to be a lawyer when a semester abroad in Valencia illuminated his true passion: cooking. In 2018, after working in some of the best kitchens in New York City and Buenos Aires, he opened Mengano, where an industrial style is tempered by family photographs. Kelemen further blends past and present by offering creative reinterpretations of traditional dishes that are among my favorite in the city. Sit at the bar and enjoy the juicy beef empanadas, lamb tartare with torta frita (fried dough), and an incredible version of a Milanesa sandwich: a breaded beef steak with a dash of sea salt.
MN Santa Inés
Seasonal comfort food in a storied space
This restaurant is a hidden gem. It's not easy to take over a space with more than 100 years of history, but Jazmin Marturet managed to preserve everything that made this former neighborhood bakery special while adding her own personal touch. What I like most about Santa Inés is that the food...
This restaurant is a hidden gem. It's not easy to take over a space with more than 100 years of history, but Jazmin Marturet managed to preserve everything that made this former neighborhood bakery special while adding her own personal touch. What I like most about Santa Inés is that the food feels homemade, yet sophisticated. Marturet uses techniques and ingredients from all over the world to create seasonal comfort food, including (my favorite) pakora, a dish with roots in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh that consists of fried vegetables in chickpea flour — crispy, delicate, and perfectly seasoned.
Where to Stay
Palacio Duhau, Park Hyatt Buenos Aires
Belle Époque-style luxury
Located on Alvear Avenue, Palacio Duhau is among the most stunning buildings in Buenos Aires. Completed in 1934, the Belle Époque-style mansion is like a time machine, with marble columns, imposing chandeliers, and a perfectly manicured garden. I recommend booking a room in the palace, visiting...
Located on Alvear Avenue, Palacio Duhau is among the most stunning buildings in Buenos Aires. Completed in 1934, the Belle Époque-style mansion is like a time machine, with marble columns, imposing chandeliers, and a perfectly manicured garden. I recommend booking a room in the palace, visiting the marvelous spa, enjoying high tea at Piano Nobile, and dining at Gioia, the property's plant-based restaurant. While you’re here, be sure to cross the road to visit Fueguia 1833, a local perfume shop that showcases luxurious scents inspired by South America.
CasaSur Palermo
Curated rooms with a superlative location
A boutique hotel in the Palermo neighborhood with a recently renovated lobby, CasaSur has an outdoor pool with solarium, spacious and chic guestrooms, a spa, and a modern plant-based restaurant. It's surrounded by some of my favorite shops and restaurants, including Vietnamese-Thai comfort food...
A boutique hotel in the Palermo neighborhood with a recently renovated lobby, CasaSur has an outdoor pool with solarium, spacious and chic guestrooms, a spa, and a modern plant-based restaurant. It's surrounded by some of my favorite shops and restaurants, including Vietnamese-Thai comfort food mecca Cang Tin (I recommend the grilled squid and the sweet and sour fried pork with rice) and Dorrego Flea Market, with its unique antiques. Explore the rest of the neighborhood on the hotel’s complimentary bikes.
Advertisement
Where to Explore
Teatro Colón
World-class opera in an historic building
Teatro Colón (Colón Theater) is renowned for its acoustics and is known as one of the most important opera houses in the world. Its grandeur is evident the moment you walk in, thanks to imposing marble columns, velvet stairs, gold detailing, and stained-glass windows. If you’d like to go behind...
Teatro Colón (Colón Theater) is renowned for its acoustics and is known as one of the most important opera houses in the world. Its grandeur is evident the moment you walk in, thanks to imposing marble columns, velvet stairs, gold detailing, and stained-glass windows. If you’d like to go behind the scenes, book a tour of the Foyer, Bustos Gallery, Golden Hall, and the Main Hall.
Museo Moderno
Art by emerging Argentine artists
Founded in 1956 and housed in the former tobacco factory of Nobleza Piccardo, the immersive Museo Moderno showcases emerging Argentine artists. In addition to its permanent and visiting collections, the museum offers guided tours, live music, and a variety of kids' activities. If you’re craving...
Founded in 1956 and housed in the former tobacco factory of Nobleza Piccardo, the immersive Museo Moderno showcases emerging Argentine artists. In addition to its permanent and visiting collections, the museum offers guided tours, live music, and a variety of kids' activities. If you’re craving coffee or a small treat during your visit, stop by Clout, the museum cafe.
Nimes
Sustainable leather accessories
Clara Bartolomé and Santiago Sellares specialize in small leather goods made by hand, using natural materials. At their shop, Nimes, located in the up-and-coming Villa Crespo neighborhood, there's a purity to every product. Designs are sustainable, unique, and suited for any occasion — my personal favorites are the basket and weekender bags.
AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARD MEMBER ACCESS
Book Travel with American Express
Whether you’re planning a weekend staycation or the trip of a lifetime, you can plan your entire trip through American Express Travel. Plus, make the most of your journey with travel benefits and more. Learn more.
Our Contributors
Irina Widuczynski Writer
Irina Widuczynski is based in Buenos Aires and runs the food blog Buenos Paladaires, where she writes food reviews and details the city’s gastronomic scene. She is also a full-time photographer who works for multiple restaurants and photographs travel destinations around the world.
