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In a city where the restaurant explosion hasn't yet caught up to the population boom, Adega is the exception. A former warehouse in Denver's LoDo (lower downtown), Adega is literally built around its wine, with a giant glass cellar in the center of its dining room. Sommelier Kenneth Fredrickson's wine list is 800 bottles strong and ranges from an energetic 2000 Austrian Riesling ($44) to a heady '82 Cheval Blanc ($950). Chef Bryan Moscatello of Little Nell fame is at his best when dishing up the familiar: a venison chop with hash browns and sunny-side-up quail eggs, or tangy, tender veal cheeks, arguably the best dish on the menu. Other plates have more flair—sometimes too much, as in squab with foie gras "bubbles." But if Adega sometimes takes itself too seriously, a serious restaurant is welcome here. Dinner, $95. At 1700 Wynkoop St.; 303-534-2222.

Restaurant prices reflect a three-course dinner for two, excluding beverages and gratuity.


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