From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

Where to Eat Now

The Hoodie of the Future


The Hoodie of the Future

British clothier Vollebak makes garments for today’s superhero.

The Write Stuff


The Write Stuff

A dip into the world of luxurious fountain pens.

A Classic Martini

Wine and Spirits

A Classic Martini

A drink from New York City’s Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle Hotel

If you're headed on a cruise around the Galápagos Islands, you'll probably spend a few days in Quito, Ecuador—and that's not at all a bad thing. This capital in the Andes, with a lovely historic center, has surprisingly good restaurants. Theatrum (dinner, $50; Calle Manabí; 593-2/257-1011), on the second floor of the National Theater, looks like a bordello that's been decorated by Ian Schrager (tomato-red curtains, brass chandeliers with black tassels). The cuisine is just as nuevo: Ecuadorian prawns come topped with avocado mousse and roasted grouper is accompanied by an artichoke ragout. Nearby, across from the presidential palace on Independence Square, is Mea Culpa (dinner, $50; Calle Chile; 593-2/295-1190), a jacket-required venue for an expense-account crowd. The seafood and tapas—try the blue crab-and-shrimp crêpe—are as beautiful as the views.

The anchor of the hip Mariscal Sucre neighborhood is Café Cultura (dinner, $35; 513 Robles; 593-2/255-8889). This Mediterranean-style villa has 26 charming guest rooms and a handsome bistro with wood floors and paprika-colored walls. The menu leans toward simple, hearty fare like grilled steaks and homemade pasta; the wine list is long on South American vintages. Simplicity of a different sort is served up at Sake (dinner, $40; N30-166 Paul Rivet; 593-2/252-4818), a sleek spot featuring goldfish ponds and the city's freshest sushi.


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