The island has made a gallant post-tsunami effort at repairing itself—and its famously beautiful villas for travelers. The twin villas Kahanda Kanda and Dubu, by British decorator George Cooper, sit on 12 acres overlooking a tea plantation. The larger house, Kahanda Kanda, is a multipavilion modern complex with five bedrooms and a black infinity pool. The newer Dubu is a two-bedroom Javanese-style bungalow with wide verandas and colonial antiques. A room for ten or a retreat for two? A place to party or hide away? You might want both—rented together, they come with a staff of 11. Kahanda Kanda, from $1,250; Dubu, $500; 44-207/723-4336; www.ampersandtravel.com.