Every Saturday some 300 jewelers, craftsmen, and independent artists fill the square of Praça Benedito Calixto (named after a late paulista painter). It's the city's most colorful market, selling bright beaded necklaces, religious figurines, paintings, and all manner of Brazilian bric-a-brac. Keep an eye out for Etnia Artes, a well-known co-op that sells lovely ceramics and textiles. Tchotchkes aside, Praça Benedito Calixto is also one of the few places in São Paulo where you can hear live choro, the ragtimeesque music that gave birth to samba. Go there in the afternoon. At Praça Benedito Calixto; 55-11/3064-8894.
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