Restaurant Rockendorf's

Convenient relocation

The one-star Rockendorf's has long been in a distant galaxy—Waidmannslust, some 25 to 30 minutes from the center. But now chef Siegfried Rockendorf has moved to Schöneberg, just southwest of the center, which makes his German and German-accented French cooking more accessible. The new resurant will have two prix fixe menus of six and nine courses ($86 and $108, respectively). I recently had a meal at the old Rockendorf's and went through six courses without a miss. Particularly good were the turnip soup with Breton lobster (very creamy and very light); a deeply flavored fillet of Seezunge (sole) with fabulously crunchy snow peas; and perfectly done venison in a sauce of balsamic vinegar. My suggestion: Let Herr Rockendorf match the wine to the dish. I'd never heard of the German Pinot Noir he suggested, a '97 Malterdinger Bienenberg from Bernard Huber in Baden, and it was superb. If only I could find it here. Passauer Strasse 5-7; 49-30-21-99-21-70; fax 49-30-21-99-21-72.