Restaurant Danube

David Bouley, New York

New York
With Danube, restaurateur David Bouley and executive chef Mario Lohninger take a Viennese waltz on the wild side, choreographing classic Austrian ingredients in a very modern dance. Garlic chive spätzle accompanies blissfully tender braised beef cheeks in a zweigelt wine sauce; organic rabbit and foie gras salad is served warm with a Weingärtner Riesling and tarragon dressing; featherlight bone-marrow dumplings float in a bowl of oxtail consommé. Austrian wines, among them Blauer Burgunder and Grüner Veltliner, gracefully partner the five-course tasting menu. (Don't deny yourself by ordering à la carte.) Bouley has set a stage worthy of the Wiener Sezession—colorful mosaics in the style of Gustav Klimt whirl among the black lacquer columns, gilded walls, and oversize banquettes (the latter a bit too dramatic for our taste). From first note to last (a walnut torte with lingonberry ragout and chestnut-honey ice cream), Bouley makes it a pleasure to join the dance. Tasting menu $80. 30 Hudson Street; 212-791-3771.