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Raising the Game

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Its setting does not do Agraz justice—this restaurant is marooned in the back of the Caesar Park hotel. But 37-year-old Rodrigo Toso is turning out some of the most creative dishes in town. He is especially good with exotic game, as in the outstanding warthog bondiola: orange-scented aged ribs braised with sugarcane molasses and served with corn cake, grilled tapioca, and goat cheese. Dinner, $55–$65. At 1232 Posadas; 54-11/4819-1129.

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