That would be Yannig Samot, 40, an actor who once cooked just for fun. Now he runs three restaurants: La Famille, in the newly chic Montmartre, is a sort of mod bistro emphasizing haute-hearty dishes, while the nearby Chéri Bibi serves more straightforward bistro items. And Samot’s latest success, the cheerful Cul de Poule, does a Japanese-tinged mix of traditional and nouveau French. What’s next? A retroﬁtted ﬁfties van out of which he hopes to sell cakes and crêpes, plus plans for a wine bar and an Italian gourmet produce market.
Chéri Bibi, dinner, $35; 15 Rue André-del-Sarte; 33-1/42-54-88-96. Cul de Poule, dinner, $35; 3 Rue des Martyrs; 33-1/53-16-13-07. La Famille, dinner, $50; 41 Rue des Trois-Frères; 33-1/42-52-11-12.