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Old-Country Cooking

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Soon after he arrived in Rio from Portugal in 1948, Arnaldo Tomé opened Bar Bracarense in the stylish Leblon neighborhood, and it's been the city's favorite for Portuguese home-cooking ever since. Now run by Kadu, Tomé's 23-year-old grandson, the bar still serves the sublime fried cod croquettes his grandfather, now 86, used to make, along with shrimp in puff pastry and fritters with shredded beef and cheese. At 85-B Rua José Linhares; 55-21/2294-3549.

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