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New York City Steakhouse

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It's clear before you've even checked your coat at Nick & Stef's Steakhouse that this place is serious about meat. In the new East Coast outpost of the renowned Los Angeles restaurant, owners Joachim and Christine Splichal (who also own the wildly celebrated Patina) have placed, just to the left of the door, a glass-walled dry-aging chamber of glistening steel into which you can gaze at rows of tempting porterhouses, rib eyes, and fillets.

Chef Brian Bennington delivers the goods perfectly cooked and perfectly accompanied—creamed spinach, mashed potatoes, and the like. And the wine list offers 300 selections from Christopher Meeske, Patina's award-winning master sommelier. Sure, the New York location isn't optimum and the space has low ceilings (Hagy Belzberg's design helps, with panels of blond wood set at angles, giving the banquettes more privacy). But you forget all that once the 12-ounce New York strip comes and you take your first juicy bite of carnivore heaven. $90. 9 Penn Plaza (at Madison Square Garden), New York, NY 10001; 212-563-4444.

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