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This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

Maine's Commissary

Manhattan-based chef Matthew Kenney has expanded his empire of chic restaurants (which includes New York's Canteen and Commune) far beyond Houston Street, to his native state of Maine. Located in Portland's public market, Commissary is a contemporary, bustling space where the vaulted-ceiling dining room leads directly into an open stainless-steel kitchen. Don't let the name fool you: This certainly isn't army grub. Kenney works with choice local products—lobster, of course, but also Winterpoint oysters, Appleton Creamery goat cheese, and hand-harvested diver scallops—each one nearly the size of a plum—that are perfectly roasted in a wood-burning oven. $85. 25 Preble Street, Portland, ME 04101; 207-228-2057.

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