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Madrid Hotel

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The intimate-hotel craze is now invading Madrid. Even taxi drivers have trouble finding the Orfila, which opened two years ago and is a new member of Relais & Châteaux. It's also a small gem: 32 rooms and suites decorated with 19th-century antiques, a tiny back garden, and a smart restaurant that's become a setting for power breakfasts. One drawback is that its rooms can be very small, so opt for one of the four suites. Also, due to the light color scheme and perhaps the rigors of moving baggage around tight spaces, some of the walls and carpets are showing signs of wear and tear. $260-$510. Calle Orfila 6, 28010 Madrid, Spain; 800-735-2478, 34-917-027-770; www.relaischateaux.com.

The Hotel Adler, which opened in January in the upscale shopping area around Calle Serrano, is one of Madrid's first truly modern hotels. With spotlit white hallways, a selection of contemporary Spanish art on the walls, bold black-and-white floors, and clean design lines, it's a refreshing change from the traditional decor elsewhere in the city. For the most space, request one of the two suites. For best views and least noise, ask for the top floor. $260-$358. Velazquez 33, 28001 Madrid, Spain; 34-914-263-220.

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