Don't leave Vienna without Lobmeyr Stemware. Since 1823, J & L Lobmeyr has been cutting crystal for clients like the Hapsburg Court, the Queen of England, and Elton John. Our choice: the Series B set, designed in 1917 by Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann and featuring matte crystal with black-enamel broncit detailing (glasses from $100 each). Also look out for the Patrician stemware set in muslin glass (the rims are one millimeter thin). The glass is mouthblown and finished by at least 18 pairs of hands (Champagne cup and flute, $60 each). At 26 Kärntnerstrasse; 43-1-512-05-08. Also available at Moss, 146 Greene St., New York; 866-888-6677; www.mossonline.com.