London Further Refines The Pub

Guy Dimond

The talk of Notting Hill is Bumpkin (209 Westbourne Park Rd.; 44-20/7243-9818), a clever version of the English country pub aimed at urbanites longing for a bit of rural idyll. The menu of traditional British dishes—think sticky toffee pudding—is appealing, but the food often hovers just slightly above average pub fare.

Fortunately, Chelsea is home to a seductive alternative: yet another take on ye olde England, in the form of Tom’s Kitchen (27 Cale St.; 44-20/7349-0202). Chef Tom Aikens just launched this brasserie, offering a nostalgic Anglo-French menu of panfried veal loin, seven-hour-cooked confit of lamb, and other shockingly tasty creations.