Don Manuel Morales de Jódar, who recently opened El Palacio de San Benito (www.palaciodesanbenito.com), a luxurious nine-room hotel in the village of Cazalla de la Sierra, outside Seville, is one of Andalusia's most respected interior designers. Descended from Spanish royalty, Morales is supremely well-connected and has the last word on what to see, do, buy, and taste.
WHERE TO STAY After 74 years, the Hotel Alfonso XIII (2 Calle San Fernando; 3495-491-7000), says Morales, "is still very chic, especially the bar after bullfights." Room to get: The Royal Suite ($1,900), where visiting princes stay.
EATING AND DRINKING Taste the yemas, egg-yolk desserts made from a 500-year-old recipe, at Convento de San Leandro (One Plaza de San Ildefonso). Before dinner—"never before 10 p.m.," says Morales—have a Jerez sherry at Bar Giralda (One Calle Mateos Carlos; 34-95-422-7435). Then, try the hake at Egaña Oriza (dinner, $85; 41 Calle San Fernando; 34-95-422-7211).
SMART BUYS The embroidered silk shawls at Juan Foronda Blasco ($60-$95; 3 Plaza Virgen de Los Reyes) and house perfume ($42) from Agua de Sevilla, across from the Hotel Alfonso.
WHO TO KNOW Javier Grillo (Agencia Passion Tours $, 34-954-563-245) "really knows Seville," says Morales. And is there really a barber of Seville? "Absolutely. Pepe Cruz [on Calle Alfonso X] is young, talented, and very funny."
Restaurant prices reflect a three-course dinner for two, excluding beverages and gratuity. Hotel prices show high-season rates from the least expensive double to the most expensive suite.
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