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Sketch was booked solid, E&O had stopped serving, and Jesus Adorno, who rules Le Caprice, was away for the weekend. What's the ravenous gourmet to do? Thankfully, The Oriental, The Dorchester hotel's Cantonese dining room, is open Monday to Saturday until 11:30. In the minimal but opulent room, we started with cold drunken chicken and fried eel with cinnamon-blossom sauce; then prawns with chive sauce and steamed scallops. From an excellent wine list, we chose the New Zealand Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2002. Dinner, $125. At Park Lane; 44-207-317-6328.

Restaurant prices reflect a three-course dinner for two, excluding beverages and gratuity.

Member of Fine Dining.

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