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Italian Vinegar

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Albaretto della Torre, Italy
Where there's wine, there's vinegar—but rarely of the quality made by Cesare Giaccone, proprietor of the two-star Da Cesare, one of the 10 best restaurants in the world according to International Herald Tribune food critic Patricia Wells. Giaccone made vinegars for his own kitchen and as presents for the winemakers who turned up to dine on his spit-roasted capretto (duck breast cooked in Barolo vinegar). He then moved on to vinegars based on other Piedmontese grape varietals, including the delicately nuanced Arneis and the aromatic Moscato, both white-wine grapes, and one made from a blending of Barbera, Dolcetto, and Nebbiolo, the region's major red-wine grapes. Giaccone uses the Moscato vinegar to perfume a warm seafood salad, the Barolo in guinea hen rubbed with olive oil and rosemary, and along with sugar, as a marinade for strawberries. The vinegars are imported by A. G. Ferrari Foodsin San Francisco and cost $12.95-$29.95. To order: 877-878-2783 or at agferrari.com.

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