From Our Archive
This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

Interview With a Vintner

The Perfect Cup

Food and Drink

The Perfect Cup

Terra Kaffe’s espresso machine elevates your morning ritual with the press of a...

The Write Stuff


The Write Stuff

A dip into the world of luxurious fountain pens.

Tonga Room, San Francisco.

Wine and Spirits

The Sweet Escape

On the enduring allure of the tiki bar.

As sommelier at Thomas Keller's new Per Se, opening in February in New York, Eric Lilavois will be in charge of the restaurant's 700-entry wine list. And when not helping diners with their choices ("sans arrogance," he promises), Lilavois will continue to publish his newsletter LilaVine: A Practical Guide for Wines to Drink. Now. Here, a few of his favorites, both practical and divine.

1. More for the Money

Bodegas Txomin Etxaniz Txacoli 2002 ($12) from Spain is loaded with citrus and acidity; there's even a little spritz on the tongue. It's perfect for shellfish and even caviar. A $200 ounce of Beluga with a $12 wine? Trust me, it works.

2. A Fresh Discovery

I tasted the Villa Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 1999 ($26) for the first time at my favorite new restaurant in Italy, Torre del Saraceno, on the Amalfi Coast. This is a wine drinker's wine, rich in minerals and nicely balanced with oak.

3. Blockbuster Bottle

The Quilceda Creek (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($80) is a serious wine. Substantial but supple tannins, intense plum and berry, tobacco, caramel, and menthol linger on a long, powerful finish.

4. To Drink in Five Years

The highlight at La Paulée (an annual festival for Burgundy's winemakers) was the Hubert Lignier Burgundy Clos de la Roche 2000 ($180). I went back three times for tastings. This wine is enormously complex right now, but give it a few years to reach its peak.


Let’s Keep in Touch

Subscribe to our newsletter

You’re no longer on our newsletter list, but you can resubscribe anytime.

Come On In

U.S. issued American Express Platinum Card® and Centurion® Members, enter the first six digits of your card number to access your complimentary subscription.

Learn about membership.