While teaching art history at the American University of Paris, Ellen McBreen often used the Louvre as her classroom. She noticed her students were frequently trailed by English-speaking museumgoers who listened to her lecture intently, thrilled to find a smart alternative to dreary audio guides and sightseeing groups. So McBreen, along with a few colleagues, created Paris Muse, a company specializing in tours of museums and city neighborhoods. McBreen and her team of veteran art history scholars take only a few people at a time (no more than four to museums and eight on walking excursions), arranging tickets and even supplying a reading list in advance. Rates, $80-$130 per person; 33-6/73-77-33-52; www.parismuse.com.