Tom Colicchio, chef of Gramercy Tavern and Craft, continues his exploration of bold tastes and simple preparation, right down to the oh-so-humble sandwich. 'Wichcraft, his latest Manhattan opening, helmed by Sisha Ortuzar, his former sous-chef, serves 15 variations on the theme. They include Sicilian tuna with shaved fennel and preserved lemon on baguette; chicken breast with aioli and caper blossoms on ciabatta; and marinated white anchovies on country bread with frisée and soft-cooked egg ("Not yet popular, but I refuse to take it off the menu," says Colicchio). For diners undeterred by fumes, there's seating in the loft above the kitchen. Sandwiches are about $8 each. At 49 East 19th Street; 212-780-0577; www.wichcraftnyc.com.