At Il Laboratorio del Gelato, a pristine little shop on Manhattan's Lower East Side, owner Jon Snyder makes more than 80 flavors of gelato, including fig, prune, and chestnut. And he makes them himself. "I'm a bit of a control freak," says Snyder, who whips up 200 gallons a week for restaurants. $2.75 to $11 at the store; $90-$100 for four pints, shipping included, through the Web site. At 95 Orchard St.; 212-343-9922; www.laboratoriodelgelato.com.