Even after 54 years, controversy still surrounds the life and death of Eva Duarte de Perón. Argentines rarely celebrate her mem- ory in public, yet the city seems to alternately honor her somberly and turn her into kitsch. Here, a tour through mundo Evita.

Museo Evita Everyone comes here for the gowns—magnificent creations displayed beside contemporary photographs. But these are only part of an extraordinary collection that includes her national ID card (the first issued to a woman in Argentina). At 2988 Lafinur; 54-11/4807-0306; evitaperon.org.

Ciudad Evita Visible from the road to the Ezeiza International Airport, the street plan of this mini city of 70,000, built in 1947, is laid out in the form of Evita's profile.

1945, El General, 1955 Photos, busts, and propaganda posters from the Perón era decorate this San Telmo restaurant, where aging teary-eyed militants recall happier days by belting out Peronist protest anthems. Dinner, $20. At 561 Belgrano; 54-11/4342-7830.

Nora Iniesta In her San Telmo studio, artist Iniesta applies iconic imagery to lowly household objects: Evita mugs, plates, and bowls. She also produces a line of men's ties, with that famous face printed Warhol-style ($50). At 715 Perú; 54-11/4331-5459; norainiesta.com.