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This story was published before Summer 2021, when we launched our new digital experience.

The Edge of Night

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The Write Stuff

Design

The Write Stuff

A dip into the world of luxurious fountain pens.

The Perfect Pour

Wine and Spirits

The Perfect Pour

A deep dive into the world of Macallan Scotch whisky.

Sohm looks at the color and how fine the mousse is — the fine streams of bubbles — a sign of great quality.

Wine and Spirits

How to Drink Grower Champagne

Legendary sommelier Aldo Sohm on rarer bubbles.

Since the twenties Lapa has been Rio's diciest neighborhood, harboring brothels and bars, drug dealers and thieves. But in the last few years it has begun a revival, as old dance halls have welcomed in a young, hip crowd that sambas the night away. Rio Scenarium (20 Rua do Lavradio; 55-21/3147-9005; rioscenarium.com.br) is the area's anchor, a colonial house with a hall, stage, and antiques shop. Bar Carioca da Gema (79 Rua Mem de Sá; 55-21/2221-0043; barcariocadagema.com.br) hosts monthly concerts highlighting a famous samba composer, such as Walter Alfaiate, a Lapa regular who often turns up in his trademark white linen suit. The oldest club, Clube dos Democráticos (91–93 Rua do Riachuelo; 55-21/2252-4611), founded in 1867, is where samba's old guard comes to polish its moves.

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