Drama at Dinner

When we first set foot inside Sucre Restaurant, part of Fernando Trocca's mini-empire that includes Bar Uriarte, we feared style would triumph over substance. And what style there is: Flames shoot up theatrically from the open kitchen in the back, while a 6,000-bottle wine cellar sits in a white cube in the center of the room, calling to mind a giant Donald Judd sculpture. And above the bar is a dramatically lit catwalk that leads to the restroom, so going to powder your nose also means putting on a fashion show for the entire restaurant. And the menu lives up beautifully to the surroundings, with such outstanding creations as ostrich carpaccio, Bloody Mary ceviche, and grilled Patagonia lamb. Dinner, $40. At 676 Sucre; 54-11/4782-9082; sucrerestaurant.com.ar.