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Argentines honor their heroes on the anniversary of their deaths, not on their birthdays. Which makes cemeteries particularly celebrated sites in B.A. The most famous burial ground is, of course, the Recoleta Cemetery (1760 Junín; 54-11/4803-1594). It's the resting-place of the country's greats and not-so-greats, where patrician families strove to create ever-more extravagant monuments to the departed. Locals visit ancestors' tombs; foreigners come mainly for Evita, who lies beneath her family's modest crypt (ask for the Duarte sepulchre). Tellingly, Evita's husband, Juan Domingo Perón, rests across town at the Chacarita Cemetery (630 Guzmán; 54-11/4552-0040), a vast walled necropolis built during the 1871 yellow fever epidemic. The hypnotic rows of plain tombs largely house the city's poor, but tango stars Carlos Gardel, Osvaldo Pugliese, and Aníbal Troilo lie here, too.


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