It has the depth and character of great wine, according to Jay Forsyth, head pastry instructor at the Dubrulle Culinary Institute in Canada: "It starts with a focused, bitter attack and then moderates with tropical fruit flavors in an exceptional, lingering finish." Too bad it's illegal to bring into the United States. Next time you're in London, look for hot Cuban-chocolate fondant with whiskey ice cream and a white-chocolate cigarette, served at Foliage in the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park (66 Knightsbridge; 44-20-72-35-2000). Or visit Vancouver's Blue Water Cafe & Raw Bar (1095 Hamilton Street, Vancouver, British Columbia V6H3J4, Canada; 604-688-8078) for a mousse made with organic chocolate from "a forgotten Cuban plantation." The chocolate is also available in one-kilogram boxes ($12), from Sugar Art, 12000 First Avenue, Unit 110, Richmond, British Columbia VTE3L9; 604-271-8803.