Cowgirl Creamery

Fine artisanal cheeses

Point Reyes Station, CA
Some of the finest artisanal cheeses made in California come from the Cowgirl Creamery, inside Tomales Bay Foods. The cowgirls are Chez Panisse Café alumna Peggy Smith and Bette's Oceanview Diner founder Sue Conley (Cowgirl "cheesemonger" Kate Arding). They use only certified organic milk—it has a full-bodied, chalky taste that is pure nostalgia—from the nearby Straus Family Creamery. The milk is picked up each morning, made into cheese that afternoon, and sold the following morning. The crème fraîche is a gorgeous ivory color and unbelievably rich in taste; the mozzarella balls hand-formed—and so fresh that when you cut them the milk oozes out, just as it does in Italy. For dessert there's coeur à la crème—fromage blanc with crème fraîche in the center. Just sprinkle lightly with sugar and eat. 80 Fourth Street; 415-663-9335.