The only way to get into Cafe de la Musique is through your concierge. But it's worth the effort to see the handiwork of three hot designers: Fause Haten, Rosa Chá's Amir Slama, and Ricardo Almeida of Alexander Herchcovitch. Each of them decorates a floor every season, and three chefs keep the pace with Japanese, Italian, and fusion menus that include dishes like duck confit with grated yucca. Dinner, $140. At 1400 Avda. Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek; 55-11/3079-5588.