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The city's most heralded new restaurant is also South America's only authentic Chinese kitchen. Having been a longtime fan of Mr. Chow's in New York, Eike Batista, a champion speedboater, was determined to open his own version in Rio. So he poached the head chef from Mr. Chow's, Sik Chung Lam, and to further the homage, he called his new place Mr. Lam. The dramatic three-story space in Jardim Botânico was an overnight sensation. But for Lam, at least, turning out true Pekingese delicacies has had its challenges. He has to import mushrooms, the flour he uses to make noodles, and the main ingredient in Peking duck. "The ducks here are just not the same as in New York," he says.

Diners, however, have only noticed the results: There is at least a weeklong waiting list to get reservations. Dinner, $150. At 21 Rua Maria Angélica; 55-21/2286-6661.

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