Now that the embargo against Iran has been lifted (for the first time in two decades), the caviar that many consider the pearl of the Caspian Sea is available in this country. One of the most distinguished producers, Ramsar, offers a particularly wide selection. Chef and restaurateur Daniel Boulud, who uses Ramsar to supply his private label, contends that its beluga is "the most refined taste in caviar." Its golden osetra is among the rarest and most highly prized, especially a distinctively yellow variety known as karaburun, which has an elegant, nutty taste. Take note: To protect certain endangered sturgeon species, Iran and other countries will reduce their annual production. In other words, get it while it lasts! Contact the distributor, Browne Trading, in Portland, ME; 207-775-3118.